August....the kookiest month by far.

[Spent]

You sure you weren't boogie boardin Spent?
That I can see how it might get wrapped around your neck.
Still trying to picture how a 6 ft comp leash tied to ones ankle ends up choking you out asphyxiation style if your not a yoga flex master. I'm sure you got some good one's in between wipe outs. Glad you didn't get hurt.

ok, this is what i think happened. leash on right foot, i bailed a steep close-out as i'm popping up, i pushed board to my left while trying to dive head first towards the right, leash ends up getting thrown up around my back as i dive and hooks around the back of my neck, white water pushes board down on my left while i extend right leg to try right myself upwards, leash tightens around neck. it is the kookiest month, after all...

but, i probably should take up sponging, yes.

[smithgrind]

Dusted off the 9'4" from last summer and caught clean waist lefts and rights under blazing sun, light offshores, and pushing tide. My hampton bros showed and the rodger session was in full effect.

[pra_ggresion]

We had seven sessions over five days. Pretty sore and burned.

Thurs- Evening session on some chunky corner HH rights. It was odd to me that there was a crowd of people; more skilled than I, vying for a closeout when there a funkier but more makeable one not 20 yards away. While waiting for my last wave I was watching the sun all but dissappear then caught a wave in. Walking out of the water I look back and the last peep of light disappears.

Fri- Had a solo sesh while EV made some breakfast on the beach. It was pretty chunky, SH, short but intense rides. Met up with Spent and Nasty. Drank beers for the rest of the day, while EV went and got some fun ones.

Sat- Best swell of the trip. Morning session unveiled some Ocar bombs. I couldn't compete with the longboard crowd but still got some good ones. Later and more recovered from Oscars we went to a pretty thumpy place and I did the best backside surfing I've had to date. Got one angry fast one that I still can't stop thinking about.

Sun- Passed up lots of pretty good waves in hopes that a mysto spot might work. The surf didn't pan out but the setting was very pleasant. We check another place and it looked really good but everyone was too tired to paddle out. EV and I bid Spent and Nasty farewell.

Mon- huge surprise at an unlikely place. Extremely glassy and clear water. chest to waist high with tubes that you could still fit in. finished it off drinking pale ales at Indian where it looked like a lot of fun on a longboard.

[RockyVonTone]

that my friends, is a goddamn surf report
...still looking for a kook month surf, myself

[scubetubeular]

I went surfing.
It sucked. Now I'm eating a pudding cup.
It doesn't suck.

[Betty]

It's becoming pretty clear that all the big balls surf in the NW. Everytime it's big and busting down here the puss crowd stay home.

No complaints from me. Dawn at trestles, shoulder to head, split waves with 6 old men in the fog. Felt like home.

[RockyVonTone]

surfed my go to when the swell is 3@7. It produced, actually. It got real windy and that ended things, but it was a nice farewell to my trusty lady of small wave domination of seven years. Plans have been conceived for a thumb tail, 5 fin set-up that will dominate all.

[tippy toes]

last days of august, swell showing some punch!! fall is rounding the bend....
hollow, fast, steep, fun and--god bless the weekdays-- empty...

except for some whales just off shore.
the pelicans have returned, too.
looking forward to september.

[SooLoo]

Had about as much fun playing surfboards as I can have. All alone at a very popular place.

Today is $hit btw.