by coalbank » Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:08 am
yesterday was the first day in water since july (when I puked on the beach), and the ONLY day of the week that I might have possibly made it in the water, and whaddaya know buoy's clocking 6@11 with nil wind. scrambled out of required work attendance at 3ish, in the water by 4. paddle out on the rip, warm water, hood off, grab a position on the inside. immediate gratification with a left back into said rip. ride, pull into rip. realize hair is still dry. sweet.
I'm still an out-of-shape, mediocre surfer with a imminent second child, but f--k, yesterday sure felt like a gift.
that's the view from my mother in-law's kitchen...