by qball » Mon Oct 10, 2011 1:14 pm
So I just got around to reading Surfer's Journal 20.2, I think it was. This probably came up months ago, but is the person who wrote the article about returning to surfing while in Oregon on this board? It was a nice piece, probably describing me in three years.
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming -- 'WOW, what a ride!!!'"