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Winter is Comming

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Winter is Comming

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:37 pm

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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Dec 05, 2018 4:17 pm

Circumstantial day off yesterday and lucked into some super fun waves despite the small swell. I had reluctantly planned the day off for a court date that was called off at the last minute for an accident I was in several years ago. With the forecast indicating east winds, did I tell the new boss man? Oh HELL NO! So rolled over Monday after work, which was a clean hour and 7 minutes from new location.

Slept like a baby to the ocean rhythms. Woke up to clear and clean lines and what appeared to be a serviceable wave right out front at a spot I occasionally surf when the stars align. Ocean was so calm. No reverb and small unmolested sets pulsing. No one really around and definitely no surfers here for the most part. Hans solo dolo didn’t wat to drive away from waves and figured I had to give it a go. These big tides make for short windows, so I did my best at getting out there ASAP.

Made the longish paddle. The sun had not risen over the coast range quite yet giving the water a spooky darkness. Got out really easily, but had a hard time lining up on the peak I watched from the bluff. Paddled back and forth missing a few good ones until I nabbed one. Offshore spray in the face and into a HH wave I raced to the shoulder. Back out there and experienced quite the lull. Tide was flooding, peak was shutting, and I hate just bobbing out there by myself not keeping busy. Paddled inside a bit and caught a mushy one in. Day was still young so after a hot shower went searching not too far away.

1st spot I had heard has been good had a small crew of mostly loggers. Looked small and big HT was peaking. Checked another spot that had one head not getting much, made a phone call, and then back to other spot. Checked it from another angle and it looked punchier than before and there were less heads, so jumped out there.

At 1st I regretted not having a fish, which I took the fins out and racked for the season, but as the tide sucked out initially it got punchy and damn fun. CH – HH crispy offsore wedgey peaks offering up pretty user friendly barrels. Drop, quick stall turn, and pull in. 2nd wave got deep and road for about 3 or 4 seconds hoping to make it out of the almond eye, but got clipped. Rest of the session was a mini barrel fest and busted out of a few doggy doors. Didn’t make the majority, but oh those views! Think I made 3 top turns the entire session. Why bother when there are easy sand bottomed barrels on tap. Window lasted for about 90 minutes and then the water was off the inside bars that make this fickle spot fun and one I haven’t surfed in a few years. Been feeling and getting the positive vibes lately. Not sure when I'll get out again, but this session should keep me stoked for a bit.
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Howly Wolf » Wed Dec 05, 2018 6:48 pm

Might've seen you tube riding, Major-- your report's spot on to where I was yesterday. Was pretty noodled myself by that point, but rallied for the sunset potential. Tucked into a few, but mostly got creamed. Did, however, score some pristine condition all by my lonesome earlier in the day. Rode my shortboard to a thruster set up for kicks, but mostly just reminded myself why I prefer it as a quad. Added maneuverability made the difference though and some of the rides flowed really nicely with a couple smooth turns in the mix. Despite the lulls and lingering tide, enjoying crisp, winter weather and the offshore flow with relatively few heads was it's own reward.

Hit it again early this morning and scored a decent peak all to myself for a good hour or so. Longer lulls and less pump, but what made it through the depth was steep, fast, and solid. Slid around 'til the tide shut it down and then back over the mountains to Babylon, still numb in the extremities but no longer in... my heart.
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Tex » Thu Dec 06, 2018 10:16 am

excellent last line Howly....prose we dont get to often round these parts ;)
I was watching cams all day, Lincoln City looked fairly epic.
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Howly Wolf » Thu Dec 06, 2018 1:33 pm

I wax poetic when I don't get barrelled :evil:

Been wondering if X-Squid has been getting to the beach house for some sessions? Seen some pics from that neck of the woods within the last few weeks that looked incredible. No doubt there's some chargers on the reef(s) today...
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Dec 06, 2018 9:19 pm

Today looked mental. I can imagene a few nooks were all time as well as the big wave spots. Swell was smaller than forecasted thou.
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby X-squid » Fri Dec 07, 2018 9:16 am

I've been slacking big time - feel like I'm going to be in a surf lull here for a bit with current life challenges (I say 'challenges' but really just middle age family life stuff.) Have been back and forth to the LC digs but my timing has been bad. Got some great crabbing in the Yaquina backwaters a week or so ago though - just about limited out.

Taking a much-needed week+ off of work around Xmas though. Should be planted firmly in LC for most of it. Hopefully the ocean cooperates.
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Spent » Fri Dec 07, 2018 10:43 am

Squeezed a quick overnighter in last Sunday to start December off.

Surfed alone Sunday evening. Pretty tricky conditions but found a few. Surfed with everyone Monday between the Cove and Ave U. No one works apparently. Then found my own little peak at Ave U for a bit. Really fun as the tide dropped. Should have been on the Fish but got to cover more ground on the Egg. Been on on-call lockdown since then. Free Monday at 5pm but next week looking unruly...
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby buoyhead » Fri Dec 07, 2018 2:51 pm

Just got done surfing the place that has been my favorite place for almost 40 years. And I’m here to tell you, that place doesn’t get much better than it was today.
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Howly Wolf » Fri Dec 07, 2018 6:38 pm

Game on today. Caught only a few before the tide dipped and the crowd showed, but oh man....
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Howly Wolf » Sat Dec 08, 2018 6:27 pm

Checked a few spots this morning, but yesterday's primo pump had largely subsided, making for either very placid (yet crowded) scenes or crazy cross swell chaos. Settled on good ol' short sands and although it was lumpy as ever, there was still some sizeable huck out there and very few heads bobbing around. Rode my new step up: A 6'6 fresh out the bay earlier this week and man, M outdid himself on this one-- thing is magik with a "k". Got me in despite the lump, handled exceptionally, and was speedy af. One specific right got me very optimistic about it's potential-- outran a section and the wave walled up again well above overhead. Found the sweet spot and locked in hoping the curtain would fall, but there wasn't enough wind to give it the reach needed. Still a pretty juicy wave, so consider me psyched for future sessions. Next week should be good, right?
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Spent » Sat Dec 08, 2018 10:29 pm

Is M Murdey? If its a great board why not use his name? He's not a secret spot... :lol:

Dude is trying to make a living.
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Howly Wolf » Sun Dec 09, 2018 10:56 am

Spent wrote:Is M Murdey?


Crap, shoulda asked what the M stood for when I bought it at Cosube :oops:

j/k. I am referring to Murdey and you bring up a good point, Spent-- gotta give credit where credit is due. If I was coy, it has more to do with not wanting other local shapers feeling left out on the OSP. Lots of talent out there, but Dan is an exceptional craftsman and just a real good dude in general.

And just to balance out my karma, gonna name drop a "secret" shaper real quick: A guy named LeBoss down in Newport who makes fun looking bonzers and has a taste for the classics.
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Re: Winter is Comming

Postby Spent » Sun Dec 09, 2018 11:16 am

Love to see some pics of your new step up...

Was hanging with Dan the other day. He's definitely stoked on orders that come through this time of year.
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