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Winter surf log

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Winter surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Dec 02, 2019 11:46 am

This thread should do for next 4 months.
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Re: Winter surf log

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:58 pm

Scored one of my better waves of 2019 yesterday and then tweaked my knee hopping on slop post-session this morning.

Surfing’s a cruel mistress, but damn does she rock the sack.
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Winter surf log

Postby BOX » Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:41 pm

Finally got out yesterday for a sunset session after being out of the water for about a month and for about another month before that. Stoke was running pretty low. Beat myself up pretty badly in two separate non-surfing incidents that not only kept me out of the water but from moving in general. My previous two sessions before that were pretty terrible and at some point I managed to put a crack in my board. My definitely-not-the-top-of-the-line wetsuit gear is wearing out and during my last session I’m fairly sure I gave myself hypothermia. The waves were jacking up pretty high for this kook as well, not that I could lift my left arm above my head to paddle for them anyway. So, I sat around, put on weight, and felt sorry for myself instead.

Eventually I healed up and the ocean began calling again. Got some Solarez and did an ugly but workable repair on the ding. Water was still cold last night but the air temperature felt pretty warm, so that helped stave off the shivers until the sun started getting low. While by no means glorious, I had a very fun session that easily topped the past few combined. Would have liked to have clicked my performance up a notch, but with not only being out of the water but with little or no exercise at all the past few months I was actually quite pleased with how well the session went. Lots of fun. Stoke definitely re-ignited.
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Re: Winter surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:35 am

Dang BOX sounds painful, but good to hear you recovered. From the looks of the cams that day, you picked a good one to get back in the water.
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Re: Winter surf log

Postby BOX » Wed Dec 04, 2019 1:55 pm

Thanks, Major. I’m glad to finally be (mostly) healed up. I’m an active guy, so not being able to move was really starting to get to me.

We bought a house in January and we’ve slowly been working on it since. A previous owner decided to turn what would be our front yard into a parking area and dumped a bunch of gravel on it. The upkeep was pretty poor so by the time we moved in it was nothing but an uneven plot of rocks and unruly weeds. Couldn’t even really mow it. So we decided to change that by ripping out all of the weeds, planting some privacy foliage, laying down some paths, and eventually building some planter boxes. Pretty boring, stereotypical married, middle-age stuff.

But we’re broke from dumping every spare penny into the house and its subsequent needs so we’re doing this ourselves – by hand, no machinery. It’s been some pretty hard work. Anyway, things were going relatively well until one night we were finishing up and I went to roll a big yard debris bin filled full of the weedy, rocky sod we’d been pulling up and it immediately rolled back and completely crushed my left leg just below the knee. I don’t know how heavy it was, but it took 3 people to lift it off me. There have been few times in my life that I felt so much pain. My entire leg from about 4 inches below the knee turned purple. It looked like I had bled gallons of blood internally with nowhere to go except to pool up around my ankle, which swelled up to the size of a grapefruit. Nothing broken that I know of, but it definitely made it difficult to walk or do much of anything on that leg for weeks. I still have some scars and a nice, hard hematoma lump still at the main point of impact. But I can walk normally now, so that’s cool.

Although my mobility was limited, I figured I could still use my upper body so I continued to throw a pick axe over my head repeatedly for days on end striking rocks and ripping up gigantic weeds until I gave myself a nice intercostal muscle strain. Those are basically the muscles that hold in your rib cage. I don’t know if any of you all have ever managed this one, but I don’t really recommend it. The entire left side of my upper body front and back ached non-stop. It literally hurt to do anything, including to breathe. Every slight jostle would have me wincing. I couldn’t push, pull, twist, raise my arm, or do just about anything but sit still without putting myself in eye-watering pain. Seriously, I think I would have rather hurt my other leg.

So, it took about a month to heal up the leg and even longer to heal up the upper body. But I’m mostly back to form now, though a bit out of shape from the combination of not exercising and filling my face full of Halloween candy and pumpkin pie for the past few weeks.

But, yeah, picked a great day for my triumphant return. It was pretty nice at the nearby jetty break with very few heads out. Definitely not a bad day on the water.
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Re: Winter surf log

Postby Tex » Thu Dec 05, 2019 6:11 pm

Box,

What a stretch bro....good Lord man....glad your healed up! Sounds like you have been grinding, glad you got some water time to get the stoke back! We should crowdfund you a new wetsuit!
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Re: Winter surf log

Postby BOX » Fri Dec 06, 2019 2:37 pm

We should crowdfund you a new wetsuit!


Ha! Thanks, Tex, but that's not necessary. I'm planning to get a new one soon. All of our extra $ has been going towards savings and the house so I've been brown bagging it and saving up my lunch nickels until I can replace it. I do everything in cash (well, other than my mortgage), so it takes a little bit to save up but I'll get there.

The current one's done well for me, but other than my hood, all of my neoprene is a few years old now and is getting holes and splitting at the seams. Didn't seem to matter much during the summer but I went out on a late fall day during a big cold snap and I got so uncomfortably cold I had to paddle in. My hands and feet completely lost feeling and I couldn't stop my teeth from chattering or my body from shivering. It took me hours to warm up, even after a hot shower. Last time out wasn't too bad while the sun was out and the air temp was up, but yeah, it's probably time for some new gear.
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Re: Winter surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Dec 09, 2019 11:57 am

Just an hour after stepping off the plane in the LBC got wacked by a sting ray (nasty little fukers) wading out at Huntington. To add insult to injury it was only 2’ and barley surfable. That said, was visiting an OG homie I started surfing with in the late 80’s. Powered though the initial pain and we traded off waves and boards for a few hours, a LIB 7’ Pickup Stick and LIB 6’ Round Nose Fish Redux with a crowd of two others. Post session pain ramped up to at least an 8 and got rained on pretty good changing, but luckily it was just 10 minutes to my buddies where I treated the small wound and pain by soaking foot in as hot as water as I could stand with some added epson salt which pretty much alleviates it. After a couple hours on the couch, some Gravy vlogs, and going through 4 pots of boiling water I was good to go.

Last few days I got some redemption for the welcoming sting with pumping swell and glassy grey thumping beach break, although chargnar water quality but when in Rome…... Was a little under gunned on a borrowed 5’10” poly OG Round Nose Fish, but that board goes good in good waves. Floated me well despite being less foam than I normally ride, yet was in a 3 mill sans booties. Kinda milked the tweeners finding fun racy corners, but had some set waves that were sold overhead heart pumping drops that spun into pitting shorebreak. Yesterday am swell had dropped a little, but better range for the RNF and surfed a very fun racey right peak with maybe 5 other heads. Some good views and doggeyed out of a couple. Greybird skies and really none of that "California Dreaming on such a Winters day". But air and water were warm, crowds very bearable, less than I surfed around here recently, which is nuts! and chill vibes. Easily the best I’ve scored this zone in my years of visits. Good trip.
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Re: Winter surf log

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Dec 09, 2019 3:40 pm

Winter Surf log's turning into the dang "Injured Reserve". Season's young, gentlemen, let's try to stay in one piece.

After some rest & rehab the past week, my bum knee felt stable enough for a high tider at Electric Lazy Left Land. My log is back in action, albeit 1/2 an inch shorter and 1/2 a pound heavier with reinforced glass & stringer. Performed where it counted, but will take some adjustment... Surfed roughly two hours until aforementioned knee popped in a disconcerting way. 49* water doesn't do any favors for tight ligaments, so called it while I could still bear weight. Hard to leave with gas in the tank, but a little physical therapy on some lumpy low stakes groundswell was the mission of the day. A few mackers out there, but sluggish and wind-wobbled for the most part. Plenty of company to keep as well. Monday is the new Sunday apparently.
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