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Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Open to mostly benign surf topics. Like: "Gosh! I had fun on my softtop the other day". Registration is required.

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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Oct 14, 2021 3:28 pm

Good call on TVS to do the fix. I've heard that can be an issue with twins, fins blowing out on bottom turn. Some say two plug FCS better as there is less overall stress vs. one box? Not a twin guy yet thou, just what I have heard. I always did my fin box repairs with fin in and tape to hold in place, even made a little tool to measure the cant. Still didn't get it right. DIY not always best option.

I believe the kid (prob not so much anymore) that used to work at the iconic US Outdoor Store, which seems to be gone post riots and downtown apocalypse, now works for El Bordo as a production glasser or so I heard a while back. Also saw on an Insta lurk Brodo was doing Arts boards now. Wonder if that will affect NP's stellar turnaround time I experienced recently. Was kinda thinking of getting him to cook me up a new stap/gun, a tuned pin tail version of his El Patron template.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Tex » Fri Oct 15, 2021 2:46 pm

Yo ML....
The reservations are still on lock...makes the sojdf trip a little dicey. Contemplating mid November three day weekend trip, will keep you posted.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby INTERN » Mon Oct 18, 2021 8:45 am

First time out in like a year? not acceptable to go so long, but riding bikes is so damn fun.

Paddled out at just about low, but this spot was def better at high. log just couldn't bash through the impenetrable wash. Made it just outside once, but was just tiring out trying to get through. Decided to just trim white wash reforms, and it was somewhat satisfactory. Humbling. At least a think I reinvigorated the pilot light.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Oct 20, 2021 9:57 am

Heavy water had me adjusting to the autumnal rydums last week. Seemed like OH was becoming the norm. One sash paddled out the Mid anticipating an impending weekend crowd and curios how this board would handle. Felt a little uncomfortable with all the foam at 1st with solid sets pulsing and a shifty peak kinda throwing. Backed off on several I would have gone for on my trusty Ghost, although not usually the best board after drop which kinda bogs thereafter. After huming a hawing finally got a mid size one all da way though allowing for an off the top, floater, and wrapping gut back. Tide started to fill and the morning sickness began to cure and found da rydum of this new board. Was able get in and go deep on some bombs. One in particular had a rare suck up bowl off the drop of which I threw my hand in the face and stalled (or tried to) and saw a brownish greenish chandelier throw out in front of me. Just chilled in pocket and let the glide do its thing as a guy on the inside hooted. 8) Need to figure out how to slow down this addictive glide a bit maybe stall out the bottom turn a little more, arch the back, push the knees together, trailing hand down :?: Regardless another break through sash for midlength.

Last few days swell was weird. Had some size, but a persistent lump in it. Coulda been the low evening tide not being ideal for the blue collar evening sash? Ultra peaky with a lot of cross up. Still some punch thou, the kinda waves Mason or Dane Fooking Reynolds makes look good. Yesterday am woke to a cryptic sunrise and offshores ruffling the conifers pre dawn. Unfortunately booties indicating massive drop. 1st check of the beach indicated some leftovers and with the east winds coulda been good at open beachies, but after thorough investigation they were all funk a lunk. Leftovers still had the lump and well its just been a long time since any of these waves have cooperated :roll: Maybe I shoulda crunched the Epicenter equation? Took morning meetings and worked...... desparado lunch splash at a quiet zone not far from the masses. Uber glass and Mid kinda made it surfable, water still toasty, but mundane maintenance at the best esp for Oct :roll: Meet a sponger kid from LA via SLO post surf who just moved to SE. He seemed blissfully unaware of the current record setting murder rate, the impeding storm, or fickle nature of surf. Hope I didn't bum him out :lol:
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Oct 20, 2021 9:58 am

INTERN wrote: but riding bikes is so damn fun.


I find it quite boring myself. Jus saying......
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Wed Oct 20, 2021 11:04 am

Warm water, bulling swell, milk glass and yes another middle twin session. Good times yesterday afternoon.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Howly Wolf » Wed Oct 20, 2021 11:36 am

Chanel Derrière wrote:Warm water, bulling swell, milk glass and yes another middle twin session. Good times yesterday afternoon.


Your original report was way better.

Major Lazer wrote:Meet a sponger kid from LA via SLO post surf who just moved to SE. He seemed blissfully unaware of the current record setting murder rate, the impeding storm, or fickle nature of surf. Hope I didn't bum him out :lol:


Welcome to Oregon, where nearly every day brings a unique opportunity to be bummed on the surf. 8)
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Wed Oct 20, 2021 11:57 am

You're too quick HW.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Oct 20, 2021 1:16 pm

Dog Fir wireless indicated Smth passed and you and Koonas were in close vicinity. Classic krew on hand and Loongboard Larry was hyping the sash when I pulled into the lot post surf late arvo for a looky loo. Passed out of gas on dub.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Howly Wolf » Fri Oct 22, 2021 12:45 pm

Oregon surf has been like a caricature of itself this past week-- closeouts to the left, blow outs to the right; swell patterns oscillating between underwhelming and over the top; cagey storm systems that leave the weathermen arguing. There have been windows of decent surf nearly every day, but like some of Chanel Derrière's more inspired posts-- blink and you'll miss it. Got some fun ones at the usual suspects, mostly on the 7'1 and occasionally on the 6'6 step. Sessions ranged from horror show gash to pristine DOH rights shared with two smiling locs. Suffice to say I got mine, but the straight world might question the sense of investing so much time into so little yield. Cold, wet, far from home, I question that too sometimes and have yet to find a satisfactory answer beyond that's what it takes... suffering is half the fun. Blink and you'll miss it.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Fri Oct 22, 2021 1:03 pm

I think we are in for a lot more of that until Spring Howly. La Nina aint kind to us.

Although, we might see a nice little stretch of more ideal Autumnal conditions smoothing out later next week.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Howly Wolf » Fri Oct 22, 2021 5:06 pm

Chanel Derrière wrote:Although, we might see a nice little stretch of more ideal Autumnal conditions smoothing out later next week.


Let's hope so-- planning for surf has not been easy lately and the missus is getting fed up with my constant change of plans. She practically pushed me out the door this last go round, requesting I not come back until adequately surfed out. Not sure that was accomplished, but a week or so is enough time for her to forget the frustrations inherent in taking up with a landlocked ocean guy.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Oct 22, 2021 7:01 pm

Pleasantly surprised myself. More manageable than expected with Bomb Cyclone bearing down. Thought it was going to move in quicker than it did. Always got to remember the wise words of Chuck D & Flavor Flav and perhaps many forgot to not believe the hype, cause crowds been down and beach houses vacated. Maybe down with the sickness? Who knows :?: Back in Gotham City, but a good post up usually turns up waves on the daily. No matter the season, 2 hours windows can typically be the norm. Thankful to have the flexibility after to many years of mind and body numbing routine in the bowels of a concrete jungle, routine is a vampire you know. Thankful for Covid? Not sure what to think anymore. Let it rain let it pour.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Sat Oct 30, 2021 7:12 pm

Left town in the dark and paddled out just after dawn. Still a few heads beat me to it. But what a session. First time on a shortboard in months. Took the 6'2" twinnie out and did more turns today than the last few months combined. Water was warmer than the air. Shared a few with SmithG later in the session. Lefts were the best. Beach break imitating a point break. Long shapely walls reeling for a long ways... Good vibes in the water. Everyone catching waves. Saved some juice for a few grinds on the way home. F*cking good times.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby smithgrind » Sat Oct 30, 2021 8:56 pm

I concur. Great sesh with everything clicking. Rode a 5’9” shortboard with a thruster set up. It may
be the first time this year since I’ve been so stocked on quads and twins w/ a trailer. Forgot how
sweet thrusters go backside and it was rad to push hard through my turns and have all that hold
and control. Relentless lefts reeling all the way in to waist high water on the inside. I couldn’t get
enough until my legs told me so. It’s rare to have my shoulders outlast my legs but it was that good
this morning. Wish I could repeat the process tomorrow :?
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