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Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Tex » Wed Nov 24, 2021 10:15 am

PRA!!! Man he was fun to have on the forum. Glad you scored CD, I completely understand quality wave over quantity wave. The older I get, I find myself satisfied with my sessions in a shorter amount of time. Being more present in the moment, taking in all the beauty, the colors, the textures generates deep gratitude. I would take that Friday session every day over winning the lottery. No $$ can deliver that experience, truly priceless.

Back to ML's post...I think he missed a step in the journey. Trying to link up the Amtrak station to the local beach break. Must have been some driving in between!
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Nov 24, 2021 10:58 pm

Tex you score lord. HBD sounds like a good one.

Beating the crowds these days seems to make my sessions. Found myself a quiet one and even alone this am for 30 minutes at the annex. Nothing epic but pretty fun on the midlength. Was kinda tripping on it. Not sure when the last time I was hansolo out there if ever. I'll take it.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby smithgrind » Thu Nov 25, 2021 9:10 pm

Last Saturday at second creek about an hour past high tide. Swell was pretty soft but still retained
decent shape when the larger set waves came through. I opted for my recently repaired mid length
and rode it sans trailer. Paddled out straight into a pack of frothers and took off on the first bigger
set wave that rolled in within minutes of being in the line up. Frothers took notice and I wasn't shy
getting more. It was going to be a short sesh anyways since the family was on the beach and I had
mistakenly left my daughter's wetsuit back at home. I may have been in the waves but I was just as much in the
dog house as well. It may have been the most waves I've caught in 45 mins. to date. All rights with linked turns.
Good times.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Nov 26, 2021 11:42 am

Seems like this has happened before SG :?: Those wake and bakes are taking a toll :P
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Sat Nov 27, 2021 8:34 pm

Close outs just make me cranky
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby smithgrind » Tue Nov 30, 2021 5:14 pm

Major Lazer wrote:Seems like this has happened before SG :?: Those wake and bakes are taking a toll :P

First time. Sounds like you need a break from those woke and tokes. Wait til you're in your wettie.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Dec 01, 2021 1:05 pm

Not a subscriber of the W&T's. Prefer brekey 1st. In wettie sure.

Caped the warm (water and air) and consistent (with some solidness) dog days of November with couple quickish lunhies the last few days getting those end of the year numbers up. Best days were gloomy to downright monsoonal with mellow crowd. The 3 HP days were OK and somewhat crowded sans one midweek east wind beachie day. Usual goal is 52 days per yr, which averages out to one day a week, exception being dog days of summer and storm swell cycles of winter. This justifies equipment and 4 board quiver when using the number of days per month ='s number of boards equation. At 55 and hopefully I can get to 60 this month and potential pick up another freshie :P
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Wed Dec 01, 2021 4:45 pm

Holy shite ML. What an insight to your inner workings... Got a spread sheet going?

You just sucked all the soul out of my stoke... ha ha...

I've never tallied shite... One of the bros tallies his wave count each session and insists on giving me an ongoing update...

All I know is, if I can get more than 3 turns on one wave its a good enough day...
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Dec 01, 2021 5:29 pm

:lol: Agreed on a good day but one good turn does it for me these days. As long as its not cloooose outs. Remember I am data analyst by trade.... 20 years deep now before it was cool or coined "data science" and everyone had maps on their phones. I will admit my surf data is analog and just markings on the annual Oregon Coast or Surfrider photo calendars. Has been for 20+ years now. I do need to digitize it and look at some of the patterns thou, but that work chit. My best years were 200+. The last 15 have merrily keeping the dream alive in my IMO. Another motivator is one thing I learned from skating. When I stopped skating at least weekly, I lost a lot quick. Unfortunately this was in my 30s. That's not gonna happen with surfing.
Last edited by Major Lazer on Thu Dec 02, 2021 9:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Tex » Thu Dec 02, 2021 8:02 am

i had a surf journal my little brother gave me, recorded swell height, direction, water temp, wave count and ride highlights. I found it to be really helpful, fun to go back and read the entries from the late 90's lol
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Tex » Thu Dec 02, 2021 8:07 am

ML, try to get Doc to put up a single post on OSP for 2021 or 2022....I'll get you the first beer at the Kraken game.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Dec 02, 2021 3:44 pm

Free Beer! I tried. On another note seen some gnarby wrecks on 26 of recent. 2 head ons. One on ice at top of pass and 8 cars back from one 3 miles east of junction. Prolly on celly. Drive safe out there.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Doc » Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:56 pm

Shhhh...
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Doc » Sat Dec 04, 2021 11:06 pm

Here's my report...
I work too much & my work is in the valley...
There's an unending pandemic that has cramped my style for over a year now...
Did spend some time in November in Mexico but it was also inland...
There are some good bars in SMA, BTW...
Hoping to go back to Mex (Baja Sur) in February but more tied to scouting a landing spot for retiring...
Turned 60 years old...and every year since 40 I've added at least an inch to my already long shortboard...
But I've had some good days this fall...
Don't really surf the main spots as much anymore if I can find an empty peak...
Other surfers irritate me too much...
I'm out.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Tex » Mon Dec 06, 2021 12:50 pm

Doc, so great to see you posting even for just a quick minute. ML, I owe you a cold one. I'm 10 yrs behind ya Doc, I will also be looking for cheap places to live to stretch my retirement pennies. Come back any time Doc, your posts and contributions to the OSP are deeply appreciated.
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