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Spring 2022 Surf Log

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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed May 11, 2022 11:32 am

Sup hommies hope your hanging in there with this cold wet weather. Imagine there's been some swell in the water. Maybe some Social Securities or late season Infamous seshies, but probably a rough go for the boys of summer at Sands and NW wind spots? Surprised to hear of more epic white waves in May none the less :shock: Pehaps I should of booked for the end of the month and continued to shred my pass away.

Anyways completed another successful Mex trip to a zone I've been to 3 X's now. Was almost perfect swell wise. 1st few days started out on the small and fun side 2-3 at 15 to 18 seconds and was able to get tuned at an average quality uncrowded beach break before venturing to the left hand river mouths and points. Well needed after a very unproductive and lack luster April for me around here. Swell slowly ramped up peaking and holding at 5-6 at 16-18 seconds and 6-12 foot faces at the premier destination. Sand placement was not perfect at this regional classic that I've seen produce world class in the past. That and swell direction had a bit of west in it, the combined factors making it a bit shifty. All and all cant complain, still some long ones, warm water was amazing, and better than anything around here. Was just amazing to get back down to Mex speak some Espanol and GTFO out of the USofA. I love the people and culture donwn there and am always treated so well.

Took 3 boards and glad I packed the Middy as it netted some waves at the softer cobble river mouth that was a little crowded at times. Finally put the quads in and MAN board lit up netting one of my most memorable waves!!! After just popping out at dawn at the top of the point a perfect set wave came and rolled right in with speed and plenty of time to adjust and set up a big hooking cutty back into the pocket and set up for 3 more turns before kicking out almost a mile down the beach. The visual is engrained in my head, the early morning light, sun just stating to peak over the mountains, a tapered wall forming up ahead lightly groomed by the am offshores...... 8) As one of the thicker crowds filled in at this spot that morning I was able to collect waves and compete with the others many on mids, alt, and fun shapes yielding a solid wave count and probably the most productive session I had on the trip.

Ghost came in handy and realized how reliable a good HPSB with paddle power is in solid surf and not sure I want to f@#K around with anything else other than maybe adding a little more foam in the future. Opted for medium thruster set, although I have preferred a quad set up on this wave in the past. Figured since is was not as lined up as in the past might be the the call, but after reviewing some clips a local videographer got of me I think a quad or large sets of thruster fins may have smoothed my style out a bit. Always eye opening and humbling seeing yourself surfing on video.

Anyways all and all a good trip. Budget travel in Mex is not for everyone, but its the way I've been doing it for almost 30 years now and really wouldn't change a thing other than staying one night in a douchie longboard town that reminded me of a beach version of SF or Portland. I guess ever since the Duct Tape and Mexi Log Fest came though a few years back, its kinda been on the map for the hip youngsters and therefore catering to that scene. To each their own I guess, but will not stay or go there again. Now lookin forward to my next trip in July and hope to score some right points.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Howly Wolf » Wed May 11, 2022 3:29 pm

Zzzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Thu Jan 12, 2023 5:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed May 11, 2022 4:17 pm

Indeed. Quads made the mid surf more like a shortboard and what I am use to. Although I have had fun with 2+1, I found it to be a little inconstant for me backside. Just didn't feel stable at times esp when droping in with a bit of an angle trying to get a head start on a racing section. Perhaps I could of slid the WL Power fin back a bit, but I marked it's placement with a pencil before de-fining and stuck with the way I have had it set up. Made me wonder if a standard 5 fin config would of been the call for normal thruster set up. Or what something closer to SB might feel like, such as Arakawa Holy Molly or Chilli Midstrength.

These trips have been good but also f@#K with your head a bit. It makes you wonder why we surf the garbage around here on the regs and why there are so many god damn surfers around here these days. Have they not surfed good waves and/or point breaks? Are they clueless? And what is their motivation? And why do I continue to make the drive? Good days seem harder and harder to come by and often involve some sort of drama. Is it worth buying more boards, having 2 wetsuits, and paying 5 bucks a gallon for gas for mediocracy when your basically living paycheck to paycheck? I honestly think I have been having more fun surfing powder than local waves last few years and enjoy the solitude of the mountains in the summer vs the craziness of the coast. Food for thought I guess..... perhaps I need a trip to my favorite OR right hand wedge as I do most Mays. "Honey I am heading out of town for 3 days" I'm sure that's exactly what my wife wants to hear right now :roll:
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri May 13, 2022 2:24 pm

We got a LEASH DRAGGER ALERT on the new Bromton cam. That is a LEASH DRAGGER ALERT~!~!~! And one of two might I add! Might not feel like May, but Kook season is officially here boys :lol:

Image
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Tex » Mon May 16, 2022 8:35 am

ML- Glad you scored bro, good on you! Im drying out up here...seems like the swell just will not line up for my taste these days. Keeping plenty busy with MMA and Pickleball....but starting to jones for salt water.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon May 16, 2022 11:55 am

I don't think it has been lining up for anyone's tastes and that's been pretty much since mid March IME. Blessing in disguise given price at gas pump perhaps? Lets try to get out there when things line up.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri May 20, 2022 10:23 am

Skunked yesterday afternoon. Ocean was ragged. Lot and overall its pleasantly dead over here. 2nd time I've hiked in and out of Sands in the last 3 months and no hay nada. Ocean still has a bit of funk on it, and its cold out but looks a little cleaner. Hopefully on my lunch break, but not holding my breath.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon May 23, 2022 8:34 am

Ended up cleaning up Fri arvo. Skipped the lunch sesh called it around 2 and logged off for the weekend. Sun popped, tide was pushing, and wind switched to the due north buttering things out a bit. Crossed up weakish wind swell maybe HH on some sets. Typical lefts in the mix. Peaky little drops to a cutty or two. Crowd filled in. Did not miss any of these people. One kid hyper paddling around the lineup like it was Lowers bro. Glad I opted for the perf egg with quads and was not one of the other middle aged guys on SB or sub 6' gravler.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon May 23, 2022 12:54 pm

Oh and for the Ben Gravy fan bois, apparently he was in the area but did not paddle out.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby BOX » Tue May 24, 2022 10:52 am

Two orcas dropped by the punchbowl last night while I was out in the water. Thought that was worth a report.

You can see them on the surfline cam just before 6:00pm heading north to south. Well, that is if you haven't used up your three previews for the week yet...
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Tue May 24, 2022 2:22 pm

Thanks for reporting that! I'm a saving my last surf check to show my girls. Tis the season! We saw a pod come through there last Memorial Day weekend. Popped out the binos for up close view :shock: Was supposed to be down that way this weekend but campsite I reserved some time ago is flooded out due to all the rain. Ranger called and offered cancelation with full refund. :roll: Oh well looks to be a windy soaker of a weekend, but would love to see those guys again and they have not been coming up to the North Coast!
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri May 27, 2022 3:40 pm

Thanks again BOX! Orca Surflies rewind footy was cool! They swam that same exact line when we saw them a year ago eventually heading south straight to Otter Rock.

Greybird, tidy, and light offshore early yest am. Saw a bit of east wind in the forecast, so motivated early, to early considering 4 at 8 on the booty. Solo dolo sesh at a rip bowl right I've had my eye on. Been a while since I've surfed this one and have gotten it good in the past, but mostly a novelty wave. Swell was fairly weak and pulsey, but the sporadic peak was wedging up enough to get in on the pref egg and get some zippy ones back to the channel. Others were kind of slow. Current was a bit of a pain pulling north off the peak. Mid still had the quads in but I think this one may have warranted straight upright single, which I don't have in the fin quiv yet. Wind came up eventually so glad I motivated earls. All and all mostly maintenance, but clean conditions, several eagles harassing the gulls and other birds, some time alone in my head, and no a-holes around made it worth while.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby smithgrind » Sun May 29, 2022 7:42 am

Early squirrelly with the Texas Ranger at the reigns yesterday. Couple of ancient go getters
were packing it up in the lot as we pulled up and threw some doubts despite the swell looking
clean from the road on the way down. Felt like kooking it and suited up for the walk down in
anticipation of the impending rain.
Paddled out a few hours after LT and caught some buttery set peaks that disappeared between the
inside bars. Clean drops, a couple of turns then flat. Even the get along boards were bogging. Things
picked up with more water on the push and a defined peak was establishing itself near second creek.
Sets there were pushing thru and holding shape on the inside bars. Texas Ranger and I land claimed
it and lassoed all the mustangs while the muchachos sat on the fence watching. CD bee lined it to the peak
and frothed into a few himself. Tide then killed that peak and we meandered south for smaller glass bumps
as the rain picked up and the swell died down. Pretty fun swell for my lowered expectations of a small window
of surf. Mos def worth the drive.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Tue May 31, 2022 9:28 am

Due to the variability of the weather and early wake up time to potentially get in one of the lots, family was a no go for holiday beach day so motivated early solodolo. Was hoping for one of two close chunks of sand I had luck with mid week, but conditions were not suitable. Swell had a pretty good lump and bump on it so ran for cover.

Lot was surprisingly 1/2 full at most around 9:30-10. As I waxed up my quad fishy I had cleaned and done some resin maintenance on the tailgate of my sedan, I noticed 2 aggressively looking shortboarders packing it out dry prob on ...Lost Pyzel or CI HPSB's thrusters. Had my bases covered and lugged down the mid as well. Passed a suited and booted hiker with single fin egg under arm who looked dry and yeasty and had obviously passed on early am go out. Hummm perhaps these folks are not aware of the almost always present morning sickness? Regardless hopes were low at this point.

Shot the shite with a buddy for an hour trying stay warm and to motivate not seeing a ton of good ones. As the tide filled and perhaps some better surfers hit the water, there were a few marginal rides. Finally motivated, suited, and booted and hit the water with all my BFF's. Water was nice clean and green, waves not so much. Crowd so so. Bit of paddling and breaking off an outer bar that really flattened out after an occasional steep entry. Shoulda had the mid to glide through those flat spots. 1st decent wave got dropped in on, 2nd decent wave dropped in on someone and kicked out. 3rd decent wave crumbled on me as I was set up a turn which I had to force before the pancake section crumbled on me. Then a drone appeared buzzing the lineup catching all the sick action. Paddled away from the nonsense and that's when I ran into CD. Shot the shite for a while, but struggled to get into anything south of the pack. Paddled back into the pack and nothing to note. May have even kneed one in like this bro https://www.instagram.com/p/CZkPqeSgFAA/, which I hope the drone caught.

A forgettable session, but paid day off some sunshine 8) no traffic and always better than the gym. All and all a productive May with 11 sessions thanks to Mainland Mex and pumping south swells :D 8) Starting to get back into the OR groove, but have seen much better Mays yet have seen worse :lol: Hope to surf elsewhere on what looks to be a promising mid period west and light winds late in the week to kick of June which looks to have swell lined up through mid month.
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Re: Spring 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Jun 03, 2022 9:25 am

1st official twice a month day back in the office warranted an after work go out. Forgot how easy it is to zip out from the Boro. Country roads take me home..... June gloom, calm winds, and south was pulsing and back at novelty spot for some cruisey happy hour cruisers on jah mid. A wedgey peak to a soft lazy long lined up wall. The most defined and lined up wave I've surfed as of recent. Easy peasy.

Woke to the sound of the new mid period west. Worked until the tide turned. Debated on heading north but opted for a hike 4 minutes down the road. Clocked in as Smigthgrind was clocking out and looked like he got a fun one in. Swell was solid and mostly walled. Greybird glass, but coulda used some stiff N winds to hold things up IMO. Sun would been a nice touch too. Really only a couple decent ones. Felt good to surf the quan fishey in some juice on the few I got. Saw what I believe to be a large elephant seal spyhopping on the outside, if not was a huge stealer. Big boy! He eventually moved to the inside and as I paddled for one saw his huge brown silhouette under the water right in my line. All and all another forgettable session. Kinda had high hopes for this swell and the start of June, but don't think sand is to good rn or just the usual funk a lunk and weirdness here. Meh. Wish I woulda had time to make a longer hike.
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