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Summer 2002 Surf Log

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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Jul 14, 2022 3:04 pm

Ceedog wrote:Is the water really 49 right now? I really don't want to search for my booties.


What? 1st Hoddown now Ceedog! Come on now! We all know HD is still holding it down in PC, but C where you at? In SoCal still? Forget where exactly you moved to, but do remember you were in Eugene, a short stint in Coos Bay, and then maybe Santa Barbra? Talk about some culture shock there! :lol:

Anyways hope your doing well C and yes better dig out the booties my man if your planing on surfing up here. It's once in a blue moon I shed my 7mill boots on the North Coast and the South Coast is notoriously colder. Maybe you forgot, but places like PO have the coldest water on the west coast due currents and upwelling often averaging in the high 40s esp in July with the nuking NW winds, so dig out those gloves too. We had a little blast of warm(ISH) water in June, like maybe 60 degrees max, but think the wind machine is back? Out out of town, but that means classically cold July water. All and all its been a pretty pour Spring if not year. Jan, Feb, and early Mach had some nice moments totaling maybe 3 weeks? But otherwise been wet stormy and now flatskis.

As for south swell, in Oregon? Meh.... well there is that one spot mentioned above, but its a fuking haul for me. I prefer winter trips down there these days. Can have it's moments up north if its west, and we had a few fun pulses in June, but mostly distant and background energy in the mix.

That said, south filling in here today. Surfed Oceanside this am. Nothing epic and a little textured even early, but crowd was surprisingly light, which makes marginally decent surf much better in crowded SoCal. Some fun and serviceable runners in the mix and the puncyness was nice. Hadn't surfed in a little bit, so felt good to get the feet back in the wax and literally too sans booties. Water seems colder than normal though. I am usually good to go in a 2 mill top and boardies, but glad my homie had an extra spring suit. Might get base access manana, otherwise think were gonna post up at Trestles and try to get some shift change windows.

Glad to hear some of you all are getting out too. Cheers, DubStar :D
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Jul 18, 2022 1:39 pm

How was that wind swell bump up here last week? Any south leakage? Surfed last 3 days in SD for a total of 4 days in a row! Highlights were sessions at Upper Trestles Friday and Saturday, not as perfect as the right at Lowers but damn good for someone used to surfing OR cornered closeouts where you have to work hard for one good turn. Southern hemi swell was pulsing up pretty consistent HH to slightly OH sets and although the crowd seemed overwhelming at times, similar tactics I've used to score waves at crowded or loced out locals proved to be successful there. Managed some uber fun rights peeling for quite a ways down the classic cobble stone point. Crazy how rippable this wave is, some allowing 4 or 5 turns, gutbacks, and bloaters. Sat eve surfed until dark and was just my buddy and a few other heads last 40 minutes or so. We were lapping it paddling back out as fast as we could for another. Was feeling fairly good by this session dialed into the board I was riding, my buddies EPS 6'1' Proctor winged swallow tail, which was kind of a hybrid thruster with some funky small channels off the side fins. Board was 37 liters which was a bit more foam than I ride, but offered a good paddling and wave catching advantage. It just took some time to figure out the sweet spot and get used to the extra foam but once I did board was a ton of fun. Capped it with some early am beachie corners and melow crowd. Another fun work trip down there, a mid summer conference I've been attending off and on for 20 years now which always seems to provide some well needed summer waves. Stoked I can still get some at the infamous Trestles 8) Next up on the travel docet is back to see my folks for a few weeks..... fingers X'ed for some mid to late August tropical swell to light up my favorite right point. :P
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby smithgrind » Wed Jul 20, 2022 9:13 am

Caught a rare (for me) sundowner last Saturday at the sands. Easily the best day of
surf I’ve had in the past three or four months. Chest to HH, OH on the sets and great shape.
Warm water (booty and hood free), gorgeous backlighting with barely a puff of N wind on it. Just the
perfect conditions to share with 60-70 of your closest, giddiest broze who frothed out at every bump
that appeared on the horizon. I had back to back waves at different peaks where I had to call off the clowns.
No big deal, everyone was rose tinted, shakas and peace signs were being thrown around like beads at Mardi Gras.
Echos of the Notorious AEP could be heard reverberating down from the packs between 2nd and 3rd creek. Just
another magical summer’s eve at the sands.
I surfed a 5’9” shortboard I had been neglecting this year and was reminded how damn good that board is. Felt
like I was on my skateboard, so fast and nimble. Wherever I wanted to go on the wave, it went. It’s nice when
the board and wave match up like that.
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Jul 22, 2022 6:10 pm

Good to hear! Call em off. OG knowledge always drops the mike.
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Jul 22, 2022 6:46 pm

Quick rip to get new stick. Tight window amongst a busy summer out the back. Caught up in Code Red II hype and light winds. Code Red I down in BroCal got me sprung. Well there was some 5@9 wind swell to. Down the 5 and busted over on the 22/18. Checkty checked em all. Almost...... but mostly pleasant memory triggers of the good days. How sick is lacing up a new board you've been waiting months for thou! 8) Kept going and settled on the sbsp. Wasn't the plan but was frothing and where I ended up. Whatever swell mildly pulsing, got a few wiggles on the new stick. Lefts so maybe a weak representation of CRII? I've scored souths at this local, one big one in 90s, pumping lefts. Always a fluke thou... and not my favorite wave when small. It was hitting in the right places from what I heard. Warmest day I've had on the coast in over a year. Sunny no wind and sand was even hot. Dubbed up with a novelty sesh at a rocky rando and slept up on a mtn. Whatever swell was gone this am early. Passed and gassed back home. Anyways think its gonna be a great shartbart at 4-6+ Oreygon sarf. At least for a few years until I have to need more volume and join AARP. Board in hand and looking forward to September, but OR sweet sweet summer please take your time. 8)
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Aug 02, 2022 1:54 pm

Good bye July.... damn last week was bloody hot in Gotham. Maybe I jinxed it in my last report waxing on about Oregon sweet sweet summer, but a heat wave was bound to come. Summers always been short, but man used to be much nicer (cooler). Been beating the heat up the rivers last week or so. Prime time. Waters perfect. Anyone been beating the heat coastal? Wind swell looking rideable on cams today......
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby BOX » Wed Aug 03, 2022 3:39 pm

Anyone been beating the heat coastal?


I did the opposite and went inland to south central OR. Almost 40-degrees warmer there than what we've been experiencing here on the coast. Good visit but happy to be back home to coastal temps for sure.

Been getting out about 3x/week since the end of May. Typically an evening session and a couple of dawn patrol sessions before work. I'm having the most fun ever this summer. Stoke level = volcano.
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Aug 09, 2022 5:39 pm

6 to 7 at 9 this am looked admirable for a token summer go out. Checked em all including the long drive into Indian, which I promptly turned around and drove out of. Maybe next year. Gloomy grey and pretty glassy early. Weak and small in the lees and nothing lining up at the more open beachies that were roping some decent swell lines in. Go figure right...... :roll: Finally settled on an uber grove grovel on the mid on the south end at Sharts. Water was hand stinging cold. Been spoiled by warm rivers. Just me and one other guy in that zone. Got a handful of thigh to knee high waves I was able to work a little. Otherwise the occasional set with waist to belly were just walled close outs. Tried to make a few turns and just lost speed and fell over. Had to get gas in Nehlem so continued south. Nothing but junk, overcast, and fogy. Kinda felt sorry for all the tourists I saw. Guess they cant afford HI or even Mex for a beach week. Anyways rallied back to the sun as fast as I could and took a quick dip in the Wilson. Fogust, I'm out! Good luck to the rest of ya.
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Wed Aug 10, 2022 8:21 am

Got better later.
Pink Floyd and Single Fin Logs.
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Aug 10, 2022 4:12 pm

Right. Ye ole should of been here 2 hours later or 2 hours earlier or even yesterday. :lol:
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Thu Aug 11, 2022 8:40 am

Yep. Even got a mild sunburn as the fog burned off. Stayed glassy all day. Still pretty weak but waist to shoulder on sets. Backing off on the peak but once you were in there was enough shape to work a stubby shorty and get some turns in. Surfed for about three hours.
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Aug 11, 2022 2:08 pm

Ah well.... maybe I should of paddled down to 2nd? :Looked like a fair amount of heads. Didn't mind the solitude given the conditions and looks like a lake out there now. Was out when the sun popped too, but was socked in everywhere else and didn't stay out long from what I heard. Saw Nasty with his head down hiking up the trial from the beach, with what looked to be a stubby SB under arm. While I prefer my mid in WH+ with some push I am getting used to groveling on it. Paddles and gets in great and no way my new stubby SB would of been any fun, maaaaybe my fish but fun to mix it up. Threw the 2+1 back in and good to feel that glide vs quad. Need to get a good upright single as you guys have mentioned for the smalls. Should be able to find similar the next few weeks in 75 degree water with some potential Atlantic wind swell on tap and maybe a tropical swell if I get lucky....... 8) Catch you guys in September. Keep the faith.
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Tex » Mon Aug 15, 2022 11:48 am

sounds like I am not missing too much this summer! Been on the PB courts and the BJJ mats most of the past two months.
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby Doc » Tue Aug 16, 2022 6:04 pm

I had a fun 4 day run on the central coast early August.
Not epic, but not bad. Escaped the valley on a Thursday.
In the water at an Outstanding Natural Area by about 4pm.
What're the other designations for less impressive natural area?
Pretty Cool NA? So-So NA? Generally Nice NA? Utterly Dismal NA?
Anyway, twas windy, but protected in the lee of said Outstanding prominence.

Day 2, got out a bit later than optimal on the south side of a jetty beach break.
10'6" of surfboard allowed constant northward movement as the wind built.
Ditched there and paddled out at a soft-topper micro wave "crest" location.
It was so weak even 10'+ of surfboard required extreme effort to get into.
Then back to the Outstanding NA, it was not that outstanding though.
The cooler of beer in the back of my car was a better area, although not natural.
Ate a very large quantity of seafood as we skated in to a fish spot 15 minutes before closing

Day 3, out much early at the aforementioned jetty location and it was glassy fun all morning long.
Paddled and surfed and repeated until I could no longer do so.
Went back to camp and slept...in the daytime. Weird.
Went back to the Outstanding NA and watched from the bluff the few takers out.
Then ate perhaps the biggest hamburger I have ever eaten at the OG Rogue.

Day 4, more jetty fun, but not as good or as glassy and time to wrap it all up.
Drove north, checking spots...not much doing much of anything.
Get Eaten looked marginally surfable, but the 2 heads out were getting zero waves.
Brohampton was not the Brohampton of my middle age years.
No more Gazza, no more SooLoo, no more peanut gallery of hecklers.
Just lots of people along with no parking signs and nowhere to park.
Then I smelled something, so headed East back to the valley.

I did get rid of 2 surfboards that I repaired and gave to my nephew on this trip.
But then I picked up a nice G&S, which cut my quiver reduction plan in half.

Doc
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Re: Summer 2002 Surf Log

Postby smithgrind » Tue Aug 16, 2022 8:55 pm

A nice G&S? oh, do tell...
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