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Fall 2022 Surf Log

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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Fri Oct 21, 2022 6:41 pm

One diamond in the rough had me momentarily thinking I was back in Baja today.

Not the spot I planned on surfing and wrong board but one seemingly endless zippy right made my f*cking day. Or maybe it was just breathing fresh air after a week lung-tightening filth....

Channel bottom twins go real fast in a straight line... just set that line right and hold on.
Pink Floyd and Single Fin Logs.
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Oct 31, 2022 2:53 pm

Ended the roaring 40s on a similar note as Tex did last year on his big Five-0. Couple smallkine glassy bluebird left point rivermouth seshies on the mid-life-length followed by a a buttery refract wedge sesh that warranted a proper shortboard to cap 49. Some of the better weather I’ve seen in this zone in conjunction with waves, but eventually a storm beared down with wind and heavy rain. 1st sesh of Five-0 yesterday took some motivation and was far from the previous days waves but had to give it a go. Couple solid drops, but reverb was heavy. Neptune’s gifts came a few days early this year but was good to get salted on the actual day. Not Portugal as hoped and would have prefered rights but can’t complain. Hadn’t surfed this zone in years and still a good time
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Tex » Tue Nov 01, 2022 10:20 am

what a great post!! Happy 5-0 bro, stoked for you. I know the refractal of which you speak, gorgeous and a bit heavy at times. Especially the hike! Heading up Thursday AM, fingers crossed for some little openings. Me and my oldest homie from 1st grade are taking my 17 yr old up for a four day excursion into the deep. Both of us turn 51 this November. This decade is the best yet. Loving my fifties so far.
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Nov 04, 2022 9:51 am

Yes you know bro..... gracias and have a good one in da fuca zone.

Bi-monthly office day and last after work sesh of the season aka "bluecoller" with clocks falling back and days shortening ever so quickly. Also 1st sesh of Nov. Got in O:Dark early, bounced at 3, and in the water by 4:20. Surprised on crowd. Only 2 heads for what I think is the optimum tide window. Not to mention last window for foreseeable future. Looked pretty fun too and it was. Sat on the corner. Ton of drops with more punch than usual. Coulda rode new SB and had to get up quick on the middy and push back on the tail on some. Not a ton of wall to work with on the average, but some resemblance of what this peak can do when it's really good and some had a gutback or two. As the tide filled started breaking deeper and got longer as well as darker. Caught a long lazy left in and called it at around dusk. Overall felt like later fall early winter. La Nina is clamping down quickly.
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Doc » Wed Nov 09, 2022 11:57 pm

Found some fun waist high peaks just south of T-Head this afternoon.
Short and sweet, got done with some work on a rare coastal assignment.
In the water by 130, put in some escalator work for about 90 minutes.
Backside rights for the most part with a pain free paddle back out.
Leashless 10'6" fun was had over and over and over again.
I was the only one on the outside peak, so I was sorry to end it.
But I had other duties to attend to so I'm only surfed up, not surfed out.
Did a little double take as I was leaving the parking spot.
Spotted a guy with another Frye Eagle under their arm crossing the lot headed out.
Lucky.
Doc
"If you don't surf...don't start".
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Tex » Fri Nov 11, 2022 3:09 pm

Well done Doc!!!

I was up in WA with low expectations on the surf even though we saw a decent swell forecasted. I have always just enjoyed my time on the land up there, the waves, if they turn on are always a bonus. My son and I started Thursday afternoon off with road improvement efforts by spreading gravel via shovel and wheel barrow to fill in dips and holes- excellent workout by the way. We spent Friday making a trip into town, who can pass up an afternoon at Swains?!?!? (swell still had not arrived and wind was wrong anyway). That afternoon we did demo work on one of the smaller cabins. My 17 yr old put his new Carhart jacket to use as we got the kitchen and bathroom down to the studs. Saturday, swell was getting interesting, watching lines creeping down the Strait...so did more demo and just about 3:00 it turned on at the beach break in front of the cabin. My youngest got the surf kyak and my buddy and I rode long boards and traded waist high waves with a full moon rising!

Sunday I woke up at first light and checked the point from our deck....9 guys on it. Which was compelling to a younger man. But, that is actually a crowd with a very small take-off window. If I was still in my 40's I would have grabbed my short board and kayaked over there, frothing at the mouth to get my share. Instead, I made sausage links and cinnamon rolls and poured myself another round of coffee. I was a bit tired from all the projects on property and the late eve sesh the day before. It was fun watching the crew ripping down the line for most of the day. At 2:30 my buddy and I decided we needed to get some. So we headed out front to the beach break. It was ok but the rivermouth was better. I told my buddy I was going to head east. He said, long paddle against the current, good luck. The longboard was feeling extra thick and floaty so I made the 400 yrd paddle in about 15 min. I was rewarded for my efforts as I slipped in to 15-20 glassy waves ranging from waist to chest high and they were at least 50 yrd waves. My tank was full. Used the rip to get back to the house in 10 min.

Age has definitely mellowed me out, I have lower expectations, less pressure and it allows me to be more at peace with the conditions that are presented. When its flat, I chill or do fun projects on the property. When it pumps, I take a breath, watch a while and jump in when I am GOOOOD and READY.
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby BOX » Tue Nov 15, 2022 11:34 am

Great report, Tex!

Got out last Wednesday afternoon. First half was really good. Second half not so good. Averaged out to "not so bad." I'll take it.
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Nov 16, 2022 9:59 pm

Nice reports. I hear ya Tex on small crowd maxing said spot out. Was lucky to get a quiet morning with just 3 or so a few weeks back, by afternoon it was 12 plus. Got lucky during 2nd sesh with the crowd and caught a few wide swingers that went all the way to the trees. Sounds like you did too. Those there and another session further out kinda made my October.

Haven't been scoring as hard as I would of liked to given the golden conditions on tap recently, but can't complain about time spent on coast, a fun long weekend with da fam, and sessions with waves that havent been closing out. Had one of my larger sessions in quite some time on Sun. Pretty solid. Got 3 waves on the mid and washed in from an outer sandbar that was a bitch to get to even with a channel assist that got you half way there. Need that dare I say fun gun..... Praying to the score lords for more scores.
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Nov 18, 2022 6:48 pm

I hope we get more days like yesterday this winter! Reminded me of days of old.
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Nov 25, 2022 4:31 pm

Some waves around last few days. Kind of a classic holiday senario and a bit of a repeat of the last several defaulting to one of the surest bets. Paddled the new SB out to Social Securities Wed on the suck out and well.... kind of a reminder not to paddle SBs out there unless it's one of those days I seem to get maybe 2 or 3 times a year. Either that or the new stick is not quite what I was hoping for and a little nichey. Will have to give it at least till Spring and even then not sure I would be able to cut any losses if I sold it. :?: Might just be waves recently.... either small or big not much in between so been on the middy or step so. Yesterday all of the randobros seemed to have the same idea I had. Kinda slow but got one good one off the bat, 3 or 4 cracks and snaps, and then one of the few locs honed in on me. Complaining and whining about crowd and sitting right on top of me between sets :roll: Guess I could of had new SB but opted for tried and true ghost. Insane sunset Wed eve and last few days weather was a continuation of the golden warm and sunny fall we have had. Would of liked to stick around for suck out and holiday dub sesh, but had to get back to town.
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Re: Fall 2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Dec 05, 2022 6:56 pm

While technically fall is not over, it's December, its cold, and over as far as I am concerned. Generally speaking it was a pretty good fall. September sessions didn't stand out for me. All I remember were frustrating close out at Sands. October was like the best summer ever with warm weather and water, fun playful surf, and found a few decent sand bars. Was stoked to beat the smoke and misery in Gotham out on the coast. November dished out a few helpings of da goods at the usuals and a few others that I hadn't seen go in years. It certainly seemed like this fall was better than the last few and after looking at Fall 2021's surf log, October was considerably better with November being a little better as well. But I still remember better Fall runs. A few zones I normally get pretty good were kinda let downs this year and others came alive. All and all cant complain I think I got more waves then I have in years previous.
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