Fall Surf Log 2023

[BOX]

Went out near the lighthouse last night and had tons of fun. Good weather, good vibes, good lines. Definitely not a bad day in the water.

[Major Lazer]

October this year was quite different from what I remember a decade ago and the conditions were all over the place. Was on it per usual and averaged 3-5 sessions per week sticking fairly close to home. I managed to catch a few proper waves at some good spots, but mostly had fun and sometimes funky surf and surfed spots I don't see go consistently. The weather varied from golden days to gloomy ones, and we experienced heat and cold snaps. Not many days were the same until it finally locked into some classic fall or even mid-winter HP east wind conditions for at least 5 or 6 days ending the month and surfed them all. Definitely coulda have been a little bigger and at times a little warmer, but that lil LP 2' southern hemi was noticeable given the conditions and lack of reverb in the water Got in a good rhythm surfing 5 days in a row to end the month and completed another trip around the sun.

[Major Lazer]

Dawn patrol yesterday was more of the same but was on a tight window as I had to hit the road by 8 am to catch my flight back in the capitol and was trying to squeeze in one more sesh. Swell was a tad smaller than the day prior, but still some 5'-6' sets. Tide was pushing and the morning offshores were just starting to puff cleaning up a little bit of early morning sickness. The water was warm if not hot per usual and it was just me and a buddy on this peak with a few other heads up and down. Had surfed my brains out the day prior, 4 hours plus, with a short water break on the beach. It might have been one of the funner days of a very memorable run at one hell of a "booming", hollow, dredging, backdrafting, peaky beachie that magnifies any bit of southern hemi swell and tubes at 3'. Caught a few warm up's and then spun on a right, just as I made the bottom turn, I was covered up as often happens here, and traveled quickly through a brown barrel with dawn's light visible at the end of the tunnel. But just as quick as I was tubed, I was clipped in the head by the top, my buddy watching from the inside finding it quite humorous. This break giveth and taketh and had me captivated and quite challenged TBH, but was feeling more dialed in with every session during the optimum tide and swell window of my last several days and although I logged some serious sessions here, needed more! You see I was living my best life in Nica on a 2 week last-minute circumstantial November surf bender. 13 days straight surfing a number of spots, mostly beachie peaks, but a few at an offshore point-ish reef that was way too fun and rippable, a nice change of pace from the thumping quick beachie. An epic trip and a surprising reassurance that there are still places out there that have that same magic I experienced traveling 30 years ago in Centro. Surfed out and blissed out and ready for a new chapter in my career

[Tex]

wow!! Great report brother! Glad you scored down there.

It has been quiet while you were away.

Stoked on your next chapter, should be a fun one.

Heading north on 12/1- fingers crossed.

[Doc]

Got some surfing done last week...
North coast just prior to the Areal Flood...
Opted for the drive in, pull up, paddle out experience...
Midweek emptiness for the most part...
Not epic, but pretty fun with short lefts & long rights...
If you made the first walled up section...
Many, many waves were enjoyed...
But the WOD, and what would have been the last...
Was a blown backside drop, dodging a outgoing paddler...
Irritated, tried to paddle back out to end on a better note...
But after a dozen on the head...
Decided 3 hours was enough.
Doc

[Major Lazer]

Sounds like you got the last of it Doc before the Vic at Sea pattern ensued. Gonna miss the midweek midlife sessions Sigh.... Tex Man hope you scoring up there!

Did get a few back home just after tropo trip out during the Turkey Day run on the manageable days and did family stuff otherwise. Didn't get a Thanksgiving surf as I normally do, had to do time, but beautuiful weather, conditions, and pumping LP day after albeit felt really cold and stiff in 5mill. Was thinking fight club, but buddy shot me a repopo that a tucked in right was kinda doing its thing and winds were forecasted NW so...... was suprised it was holding as I heard a 23 second buoy reading on the way over, but forerunners at that point. Wedgy drops bouncing off the wall sectioning into fun runners to the sand on 1:5 or 1:6 wave average. Lotta work but fun enough, good to be back I guess, HH maybe overhead and had some push to the mush. Actually had some bowly sections, found a few slots off the drops, and laid down some hacks on the 5'11" TPat laced as a quad for slow slopey Orgegon sarf. Crowd was super chill, no kooks, maybe 5 heads max. Felt so tunned and timing was on point after surfing for 2 weeks straight once I got used to my suit. Just nothing better for your surfing than surfing everyday.

Skipped the XXL and surfed that Monday, the last day before starting new job. Actually got another tip on another tucked in right, so I went to investigative. Sure enough it was doing it, a fickle one these days. Grabbed jah Ghost as it looked kinda solid and waxed cold over tropo. No worries, works, but once I got out and into a few was kinda bogging. Decided on board change, came in kinda amping, swapped for the Syth 84 my only other board at the moment after getting MR ripped and selling jah Mid which has been fine, but closed the trunk only to realize I locked my key in the car Sooooo went into surf shop yeasting it in my wet wetsuit and used the phone to call roadside emergency services Honesty best addition to policy one can ever make. Luckily they dispatched local bloke who was there pretty quickly, but by the time I got back out wind had switched, tide was sucking, and a bunch of Bend bros were out there Was kinda frustrating at that point. Called it and motored home wishing I had another day given the forecast, which I would have just weeks ago, but as they say on to the next chapter. End of an era, the midweek midlife midtide era, a hell of a run last 3 years. Kinda surfed my brains out for a midlife Gotham creedler.

[Doc]

Little bigger than I expected…
10’6” was tough to make the drop on a couple…
But overall, fun was had…
55 degrees and blindingly sunny was ok too…
I’d do it again…
And tomorrow looks like more of the same…
Go get it if you can.
Doc