2024 surfing hyperbole

[Doc]

Since everyone was posting in 2023 about 2024...
I thought "Why not have a place for 2024 surfing?"...
I surfed on Friday...
North Coast epicenter...
It was good...
I was on a longboard...
I caught a lot of waves...
It was sunny...
It was windy...
I drank beer afterwards...
I poured some out for Gaz & SooLoo.
Doc

[Foul Pete]

I miss you all. My car only drives east, except Sunday evenings.
I've started to enjoy The Dalles.
Weekend before last they released, Alice Coltrane's "Live at Carnegie Hall." It's a good one.
What else? My wheelbases are getting longer and now we have soft wheels that slide. What a world, we live in.
Surfed Oxnard by myself on a 7'2" single fin in a 3/2.
Ran into MajorLazor last Friday but it wasn't me bc I only surf Sunday Evenings.
Last Sunday evening looked like shite but I actually had 2 hours of very serviceable lefts using smaller-than-I-Should twin fins in my 6'2".
Might read The Passenger by Cormac McCarthy soon. Not sure.
Got some Cali plates. Say Hi.

Oh yeah death. Lots of death.

[Tex]

Great update FB, yeah, we are all getting old, more death coming.

[Major Lazer]

Since everyone was posting in 2023 about 2024...
Doc

I botched the date on the Spring surf log The years are all beginning to melt together especially the mostly mediocre days of Oregon surf.

Nothing to report this week. Winds were east yest in my backyard and knew it was probably one of those day you could surf anywhere alone or with a mate as close as possible to home, but microwaves and no LB or board for those conditions rn. Kinda had to work as well. Starting to froth for a southern hemi swell surf trip. Need to get something on the calendar and blow this popsicle stand at some point

[Howly Wolf]

Took a fun little swim the other evening. Had raced a walled up right to its inevitable conclusion and felt the cord go slack as I punched through the closeout. Empty beach, empty lineup, lots of water moving around. 8' combo swell and cranking north wind to sweeten the deal. A bit freaky and though I took a few to the head, made it to shore without incident. Retrieved my board and walked back to the rig, passing two bros who had just arrived. How was it? "Not too shabby". Culprit ended up being a snapped leash loop; had some paracord on hand, so quickly replaced it, then went back out and surfed some more. The two bros joined and they ripped. I don't, but certainly made it worth the effort. In hindsight, I should've replaced the leash loop earlier having noticed it looked hyper-extended. My real mistake though was telling the old lady about what happened. Now I'm not allowed to surf anymore. Anyone here like pickleball?

[Major Lazer]

The Sylvan was 6 to 8 ft and going off Monday night around 7:00 with no one around. Ripping through the tunnel with no traffic in sight, it's like getting barreled at the point these days! Getting stuck in traffic after a surf is the equivalent of getting burned on the one kine peak you got finally lined up that isn't closing out by some punk kid who just moved out a few years ago. Couple seshies in a few days. More of the same. Still figuring out new board. 6 foot sets felt good and quiet evening that kinda buttered out was nice. Coulda shoulda rode shortboart. Died out quick tho. Leftovers for breaky but a little weak and slow.

[Major Lazer]

Oh and check your leash loops every now and again. Usually do it at the beginning of fall or before a trip. Replace if necessary. Also carry extra one.... fin screws too.

[Tex]

Yeah, I am playing more PB than surfing these days, couple days a week on the courts minimum. Expecting eve surf seshs to start ramping up again in the next couple weeks.

[Howly Wolf]

Oh and check your leash loops every now and again.

Solid advice, however, in this recent misadventure it was a brand new loop that faulted. Came w/ leash from a company that generally crafts very reliable gear. Weird. Definitely should've replaced it when I noticed it was stretched out. My takeaway is that if something looks or feels off than it probably is.