2024 surfing hyperbole

[Major Lazer]

June ended with yet another kine 5'-6' west pulse and light winds. My timing was a bit off on Sunday the 30th as the fog moved in and what would be hyped as a "King Tide" in winter filled in over the bars. I was tired after ripping it up Sat afternoon and evening with daughter and friends and kids at the NOFX PunkInDrublic fest. Surfed out after weeks of consistent swell and decent to good sessions, kinda forced myself pack up and schlep out for likely the last mid period pulse in a unusual string of 270-280 5-7' swells lasting the entirety of May and June. Opted for an easy drive up spot I had not surfed in quite some time. Cam looked fun and got a decent report from am. Paddled out into the fog solo for a bit. Waves were weird breaking and then flattening out. Drops to really nothing. Put in about an hour with little results and called it thinking the bars were still shot here and report was mostly fluff. But around 5 fog pulled back, conditions buttered out, and a number of locs pulled up and jumped out. HH-OH lefts and rights, some peeling for quite aways although swamp tide was making things a little slopey yet some rippage was going down. Looked like perfect conditions for a Middy. Classic Oregon when the waves all of the sudden turn on like someone flipped a switch. To tried to suit and boot for the dub, enjoyed a pleasant evening cooking dinner and watching the sesh go down.

Hit the water July 1st at 6:30 am rested and rejuvenated after a solid nights sleep in van. Butter glass and grey skies with high clouds and one other head down the beach. Swell was still pulsing nicely, a little smaller, but tide was optimal and waves were focused in inside bars bowling and standing up nicely in the shallows. 1st wave popped up out of no where, a glassy HH peak with solid drop and tons of speed. Was so glassy with flat light everything blended in visually and the wave shape was hard to make out, feeling like I was carving around on an endless wall kinda like snowboarding. Sun began to break with peaky nugs in the mix. Rights were long, which I typically prefer here, but they were kinda flatting out after the drop where the lefts were rampy and bending in offering pitching hackable lips. Little bit of a crowd eventually, but no one really had the left figured out and my buddy and I were picking them them off and working multiple sections to the beach and back out. Called it around 8:30, made some breky and worked watching the lefts go mostly unridden for a few hours. Jumped back out for lunchy, was a little ruffled by a light northerlies, but the lefts were still in the mix. A bit inconsistent, but only one other head out a little ways down the beach on another peak. Practiced my round house to rebound on the ones that opened up. Was juiced and spent the afternoon working in the lot in the thick of an early holiday crowd with summer is in full effect.

Family post up for 4th in Manzo. Surfed the eve of the 3rd at Sands which was 1st sesh there in a number of weeks. 5 at 8 weak fluffy windswell and really cold water. Quiet and calm before holiday storm. Surfwise was kind of night and day from last few months. WH and hard to catch. Caught a handful on the fish, but required a lot of work. Small wave, short board, and cold water hurts my back. Felt very mush like July...... wrote the rest of the weekend off and opted for a local boogie sesh and some skate sessions at a private mini ramp. Time to head for the warm rivers and lakes and plan a surf trip. Peace out Summer sarf.

[Doc]

Surfed some calf to knee windswell on a 12'6" on Saturday.
About 175 miles due east of Reedsport...not so secret spot.
Surfed even bigger knee to thigh wakes the days previous.
Wife paddled out in glass turning to 20 knot winds going the wrong way.
Her 45 minute paddle ended up being 2+ hours.
Not a happy camper, or paddler to be sure.
Much easier watching the dogs & wife with binocs from shore drinking beer.
Same zero to 20k did take my 10x10 canopy for 1 time trip down the beach.
Then I took it for a final trip to the dumpster.
As I chased the tumble tent down the rocky shore I was a little abashed.
Since I admit I'd have said to myself..."What dipstick didn't anchor their tent??
But, dipstick was me. Despite a 100# of rocks at each leg.
Doc

[Doc]

Surfed again.
Not much to report.
Alarmingly small waves.
Shockingly long surfboard.
doc

[smithgrind]

Borrowed a 12’6” from neck deep without looking at it.
I was instantly deflated when I tried to pump it.
Took turns breathing life into it and holding each other’s beer.
I learned a new way to paddle.
Flat water is my new zen.

[Doc]

Surfed today for few hours...
All by myself and some pelicans.
A mile away, there were hordes I suspect...
Given the full lot & cars parked on the highway.
Paddled out to a likely right-hand backside peak coming off a stack...
That looked to be staying on task.
Pretty fun waist high waves with a few...
Just over head high and actually, steep and even throwing out a bit.
Never got a left, all rights all the time...
It was pretty fun, I even hooted once...
Since there was no one around to hear it.
Doc

[Major Lazer]

Borrowed a 12’6” from neck deep without looking at it.
I was instantly deflated when I tried to pump it.
Took turns breathing life into it and holding each other’s beer.
I learned a new way to paddle.
Flat water is my new zen.

No bum bum grevels on da Blasmatic?

[Major Lazer]

Surfed more than expected, 3 sessions total..... Goodbye July!

[Major Lazer]

Tropical swells TD Debbie and Hurricane Ernesto revived me from near death surfwise and saved August killing a severe summer wave drought and dry spell. Per usual been living my best life in the ocean state and lucked into 2 swells over the last week and a half and 75 degree water. Debbie came up inland and served up a 9 second wind swell that had some push to it. Had a super fun mid afternoon sesh on the point (not that point, a right point!) that was uncrowded and fun. Dusted off and got reacquainted with the ole quad fish home shape and it was just like old times. Rippable rights peeling over the rocks with time to style out a number of turns. Surfed leftovas with the gromita the next am at the beahchie where I learned to surf. Crowd got thick, it was a Sunday.

Ernesto took a classic track and produced a quality LP ground swell in the 15-18 second range topping out at about 7'. Winds weren't ideal, but there is always somewhere to hide along rocky glaciated coastlines and we did scoring early at protected up river left point. Solid 6' faces and 100 yard rides on the good ones. Just 6 of us, my cousin and some other old friends all 50 plus trading waves and having a blast until the calvary showed around 8ish. Afternoon sesh at another kinda protected spot at home. Long lulls with straight south, waist to chest and a little bumpy but fun lefts. Kinda reminded me of the Straight with the long waits. Day 2 am same spot as Sat am with hopes of another score, but 5 degrees of east was a bust not getting in. HT didn't help either. So back home and to spot I surfed Sat pm and a bit more consistent with more east in it. Super fun and pretty much just a small crew of island locs seshing. Day 3 still plenty of swell. Point mid day was bumpy but still fun. Storm was a slow mover and about 4 days of waves and warm water got me kinda of surfed out and been finding my ideal Circadian rhythm the last few weeks.

[Tex]

Great report ML!! Glad you got your fill back east!

I was in the strait this weekend, paddled my long board from campground all the way around the point and back. Currents were ripping west so the paddle home was breezy. Wicked small pulse but zero wind and blue sky along with seals and porpoises made the surf session memorable. Caught the lefts off the point and rights off the rivermouth....then back to cabin exterior painting, good times.

[X-squid]

Hey you all are still here? I thought this page was LONG dead

[Tex]

X!!! You made it back bruh! There are like 6 of us the provide updates and random thoughts....even Doc has been posting again!

[Tex]

Sounds like it could be absolute MAYHEM at Oswald this weekend due to bridge repairs....if anyone has to go, be there before 6:30 am....

[Major Lazer]

Handful of typical Oregon sessions in last few weeks, nothing really to note, other than one last week where I found myself hans solo at the infamous after trading waves with 3 other randos who paddled in. A pure west long period ground swell pulseing, solid OH lines rumbling along. The air was hot, water warm, and waves glassy. A light smoky haze had settled and watched a wildfire induced orange pinkosh sun melt into the ocean in between sets. Lapped it for a few more and caught one in, a HH drop to CH wall I was able to casually set up an number of turns on, squaring off the bottom and hitting the lip in rhythm pretty vertically into steep reentries back in to the pocket. Milked it as it bent around the inside and into the rocks where I jumped off and scrambled out to enjoy a peaceful and secluded moment taking it all.

[Major Lazer]

Sounds like it could be absolute MAYHEM at Oswald this weekend due to bridge repairs....if anyone has to go, be there before 6:30 am....

Pretty much a non-issue for the Portland crowd or anyone else traveling from the north and not to bad in my few experiences traveling south to Manzo. Had a frustrating session last time I surfed Oswald a week ago. 1st time I had been down there since mid June. Lumpy and dumpy despite a good swell running. Crowd was kinda thick and every time I lined up what looked to be a decent corner, someone was on the inside. Twinny that seemed do me no wrong in April-June also felt off. Not sure I like it in unpredictable dumpy surf. Couple guys were consistently getting some decent ones on a rat packed peak which made it all the more frustrating. Water was warm and was pretty glassy, but then the fog moved back in and went to shat.

[Major Lazer]

Some waves around all week. After all September is the surfers summer, right? But also the soft topper adult leaner summer....who let the cat out of the bag! Northwind pattern for days so you know da rules. 5 sessions this week mostly evenings, low tide, peaky, bowly, N wind bending offshore last few hours. Plenty of close outs in the mix but thumpy fun ones almost feeling like a proper beachie. Shoulder to waist. Small kine I guess. Highlight was watching a grom pig dog into a clean barrel last night and a larry lay back on a rare bowly right I surprisingly stuck Monday eve. Sometimes the old man gets on down.