Spring-Summer-Fall Surf Lies 2025

[Major Lazer]

More importantly at what size do you loose the glide of a mid? 6-4? Asking for a friend. Haven't made the long drive this past week but cleaned the fungun, hp mid, fun board or whatever ya want to call it.

[wanty]

I had super high expectations for yesterdays 1-2ft long period swell, so I tortured myself getting prepared for an epic day.
It turned out to be just an OK day. Super inconsistent with strong long-shore currents topped off with just enough S wind to mess things up. Still managed to get a few waves without a single surfer in sight.

[Major Lazer]

It’s been really small albeit clean as the winds have laid down as they do in September. Posted up for annual family SBSP Labor Day camp out. A small inconsistent and decayed 1 at 15 southern hemi pulse combined with light winds made for some good conditions for the gromita which got me salted 3 days in a row. She checked off a new spot on the way down along a punchy stretch of beach and just the 2 of us surfed a dumpy little left that was waist high for her. Otherwise we surfed SB and she was able to get out the back everyday putting together some good rights and stuck a couple critical drops on her 6-4. Even Dad found a few running thigh high rights on the twinny fish. Seems like forever since I’ve dropped into a head high wall pumped down the line and made a few turns, but I must admit it’s pretty rad surfing with your kiddo once they get past the white water phase and actually start catching some green waves.

[Major Lazer]

September was a trip. Youngest grommita started HS, lost my Dad, back to Rhody again where we laid him to rest on the island he loved and we love so much. Missed another tropical swell by a week back there skunked in peak season. Woulda been a nice way to ease the pain, but time with family was important and we did him right.

So took some additional bereavement time off and posted up on NoCo for 4 days. Cant remember the #s but there was good swell and summer NW winds, at least for a few of the days. 3 kinda frustrating sessions at Sharts, sand seemed off, but the mid week mid day was crazy quiet and christened new rubber. Watched some really lined up waves elsewhere, but never jumped out and there was at least one window I should have Passed on day 4, wasn't really good, and rolled feeling like my cup was half full.

More recently had a fun one (finally) at another marque, but took 2 seshies and a walk down the beach to find a corner. Swell had a lot of north in it, but was a pulsy groundy. Gentleman's hour. Suny and warm. Crystal clear green water. HH dumpy rights throwing pretty good into shallow water. Steep quick drops to bowly walls with at least one turn section. Just 2 other heads, one loc, one younger lad who pulled into a nice barrel and then paddled in. Fun one on the new shorty as a thruster. Got me stoked again and hopefully more to come and this storm cycle moves around some sand.

[Howly Wolf]

Sorry to hear you're going through it, Major. Hopefully, conditions line up and you get a few sessions to help find peace & perspective. Stay the course!

[Tex]

ML- Really sorry to hear about your dad, losing a parent is rough, I am on that road of grieving with you. Lost my mom a few years back. Glad you got some! I am heading up North end of October....hoping to catch some crisp fall swell running.