by tippy toes » Sat Jun 05, 2010 5:54 pm
last 2 days have been epic. warm, sunny, offshore, overhead. lots of cover ups today. saw some of my homies get a few barrels. loving every minute. last night, 3 hours alone with just my brother... today, woke up at 7am, in the water at 7:05, pajamas to bikini to wetsuit, no bothering with the inbetween change into normal clothes. 3 + hours again, sand bars lined up like magic and all the classics were out today, old timers, kids, everyone inbetween. my roommate ruling it on the karmic voyager... then later today, another local came to borrow boards from the back yard, i didn't know which ones, (it looks like a surf shop, we will probly have to get a check-out list), and later, driving through nye beach, i saw the karmic voyager on someone's car... got a big shaka and a smile, the board still beaded up with ocean water, 2 sessions... i heard good reviews at the coffee shop later when i dipped down into nye to fill up the mason jar with java...a great compliment for my first shape.
and... the water is warmmmmmm. yes. beach life is awesome.
SURF WHERE YOU LIVE