December and Stoked

[fossilgrom]

Ya ok. The surf has been pretty crappy, but the worm will turn....

Speak.

[fossilgrom]

Ok I'll start 'er off.

Paddled out about a 1/4 mile a couple days ago into choppy large surf with about 30 minutes of light left. Got maybe two waves and mostly got worked. Glad I did not break a leash. Fun today until I dove off the front and put my hands up to protect my face and got finned across the palm. That turned into an emergency room visit and about 8 or so stitches to close up the tatterd mess. Guess I'm out for the rest of this good spell.

[Doc]

Surfed some fun chest high peelers...
Sunny, warm, offshore winds...
Super low tide takeoffs on small bumps...
Warping on the bar to small hollow barrels...
Tried to tuck into a couple unsuccessfully...
Too much surfboard, too much speed...
Got bounced off the bottom one...
Which, since it was breaking knee deep...
Isn't too surprising...
Came out unscathed tho unlike FG...
Sorry to hear you got hurt.

Doc

[Gazsurf]

Fun double sesh, surfed til dark. Hope all you cocks go to the civil war tomorrow. Sorry your wussy hurts Fg!

[helstab]

Saturday.

Epic.

[RockyVonTone]

Shoulda gotten there earlier, but first two waves were incredible. Off shore all day! Good swell. I haven't been so giddy getting ready to surf, while watching perfect a-frames rolling in, in a very long time. I am pretty worn out and stoked today. You won't catch me saying stoked too often, either.

[estimated eyes]

surfed a few spots this mornin, beautiful sets rolling in. came back in to find my keys not in my (not very)secret spot under my truck. instead they were inside on the drivers seat with my wallet gone.

ive put my keys in the same spot every time i go out, as do everyone i know. heads up, someones out there watching you suit up and leave. spoke to the cops and they said same thing happened on sat too in the same boiler bay area.

freakin tweakers...

[estimated eyes]

update...
just got a call from the cops. i was the first of 4 break ins today. 3 out of the 4 were surfers. the person went from otter to agate to southbeach to yachats.

[Gazsurf]

Monday: SE wind 15 to 20 kt ... becoming S 20 to 25 kt in the
afternoon. gusts to 30 kt. confused seas 5 ft dominant period 10
seconds. slight chance of showers.

[Friend Of The Hawk]

Not again!!

[brobra]

That sucks about your wallet. I surfed saturday and it was awesome!!!! I put my keys in that same spot too, and did feel a bit sketched about doing it. I would of been so bummed if I came back from a great session to find my wallet gone. Thanks for the heads up. I think I will put it in a plastic zip lock now, and put them elsewhere...

[erzats]

why don't you put your key on the key loop of your wetsuit? Or drive a scheisse car with scheisse posessions?

[moregon]

caught the sunset on saturday. wanted to paddle out for a little last light but was waxing up a new whip. surfed all morning sunday with buddies. high tide long rights, as the tide dropped it got better and better. super hollow. surfed monday with buddies, perfect conditions. rights and lefts and shredding. thank you december.

[Quad Head]

Thank La Nina. She's been so so fine the last 3 months. Well La Nina and whomever is responsible for for moving sand around.

As for the key thing. Sheeesh. Might as well go back to Cali now. Lame. One of my keys is not water proof so..... otherwise last surf left my rig unlocked and windows cracked. But go ahead and try to open my door cause my homeboys got the shiit on lock down. Bow-wo-wo yippe yo yippe yow.

[SooLoo]

OB is going to start happening whithin 30 min if you leave now you should only be about 8 hours too late!