by Doc » Fri Feb 11, 2011 8:16 pm
Triggered on Thursday...
Despite workload & deadlines...
1pm arrival with lookers no takers...
Pretty solid, HH to OH sets...
But unpredictable...
Some corners but lots of closeouts...
Some guy finally nutted up...
And made it past the inner bar detonators...
I'd seen enough so suited up & joined him...
Even tho I never saw him get a wave...
I only had a 9'6" (I'm smart like that)...
So knew I'd have to pick my route wisely...
Waded out to waist deep & waited for a lull...
It hit, I scrambled outside, dryhair paddle...
First wave (like the 2nd) I went left...
But aside from the bottom turn & 1 off the top...
(Nothing to vertical I assure you)...
That was about it...
Then, stuck on the inside, getting hammered...
Bellyed in to the shallows & walked back to my spot...
Made the scramble back out and saw a promising peak...
Went backside (right) and hooked into a lined up one...
It was a pretty bumpy ride overall...
Mostly a 10 toe grip survival ride (not that I'd have died)...
But lotsa warbles & bumps that the Hynson smoothed out...
Kicked out and found myself in a deep water pit...
No waves, just swirling havoc...
Paddled sideshore til I found footing...
And walked back up the beach to paddle back out...
Was hoping for another good right...
And some pretty rocking sets rolled through...
But all pretty much offered the promise...
Of sacrifice and flagellation...
Paddled for a couple, halfheartedly...
Only to turn and scramble to make it over the top of the next...
Finally, went on one...
Again, bottom turn, line it up and...
The lip pitched 20 yards down the line...
Game over, swing towards shore, belly in...
Bought a beer, soaked in the February sun...
Chatted with the head local...
All in all, better than working.
Doc
"If you don't surf...don't start".