Oktober-fistula

[SlimVest]

shared a lineup with an otter sunday morning. spending most of his time just outside in the kelp. rogue set rolled in. got a glimpse of him just as he got caught napping in the face of a wave. He snuck through the back just before going over the head and a half set, the morning sun illuminating the whole thing. how often do you see otters?

[b]

Hit it around 10 AM Monday with some fairly large outside sets rolling thru, a couple guys at middle, a couple guys at 1st. Me and 2 others trying to stay in position on the outside. Caught one bomb left and felt so undergunned.... enough size to it to scare me off from going back out; I find I'm easily over my pride as I age. Played on the inside reform lefts for an hour or so and caught a couple of fun waves - could have been total doodoo and still fun thanks to the warm water. Hopped out when winds started to shift north.

[smithgrind]

Summer weather, fall juice. Hit it with EV and shared a few with Doc. At a spot where I'm so accustomed to going left, it was rights all day and really long ones at that when you could link sections into the steeper beach break. Wish I could've stayed until the sunset, but had to come back for work. Oil cans of PBR for the ride home and good vibes to last through the evening. Amped!

[Doc]

Pretty solid today...
Overhead on the sets...
Surfed the 7'0' quad...
Until a rail laid me open...
3/4 inch forehead split...
Not too serious but messy...
Once I stopped the bleeding...
Took out the 9'4"...
Earlier in, faster down the line...
It was dead calm and hot...
Almost wanted some wind...
To clean things up.

Doc

[erzats]

Finally shaved 2' off the board length and added a couple fins. That equation added up to a lot of fun on dredgers as the tide slipped out. Sandy, frothy goodness.

[Quad Head]

You know its fall when. Boards and wetsuits are snuck in and out of the house jus so you dont have to hear about it later. You start telling your boss those little white lies. Buying coworkers beers for covering for you. Caking on the sunscreen to avoid any suspicious bronzing. Paving projects. freakin paving projects! Scratching for the outside or getting blasted by outsiders. Relearning how to ride your HP shortboard. Glassy, sunny, mid day, mid week sessions with just a few heads. Waves that go round. Although the verdict is still out on how good Falls really been. But that is still TBD.

[Nash]

May or may not have had fun with Slim yesterday (no homo), may or may not have drained some reebs after said potential fun, may or may not do it again. I did put a new traction pad on my HP shortboard.

[Tatonka]

tested out a new leash this afternoon

[pra_ggresion]

What kine?

[erzats]

yeppers. Howling offshore hideaway. Spray-blind drops with four friends out. Best sunset with sliver moon in a long time.

[harg]

beautiful afternoon session. looked a little sloppy from the beach and sets were closing out, but selection was very well rewarded with a few of the funnest waves i've surfed in a while, both rights and lefts. felt like a lot more energy and water moving around than i expected from an 11sec swell.

[McDing]

Gaz------Missed your comment about "internet ledgends" at the Noll. Figured as much. I knew a guy who got ten multiple times every time he was in the water. Problem is I never saw him take one step forward from mid board in all the times I witnessed him surfing. There was a guy at the Rogue though that hung ten twice on one wave. Uh-huh.

[smithgrind]

Tried to rekindle that magic from last Weds. session. Conditions looked similar from the noaa links so I beelined down to the bluff and realized the dropping tide, swell direction, and size were creating a thumpfest inside and close to DOH sets were closing out. I paddled out anyways and paid in full. I should'ved checked a spot to the north 'cause it was working when I left. I think Doc got some waves there.

[Tatonka]

Two heads out at the peak when I showed wed afternoon, 16 when I went in (the long way). Wind wasn't quite what I had hoped for and sets were head n' half at best but all in all, best session of the fall so far...

[Doc]

Watched SG get alternately skunked...
Then worked for about an hour...
From my above the waterfall vantage point...
The waves you wanted were the 'tweeners...
OH frothy reeelers that went both ways...
About 25 yards inside of the outside sets...
Outside sets that were easy head & 1/2...
And pretty much closed out...
Problem was, no way to hold your position...

Headed north and definitely more manageable...
The outside sets in the cove were occassionally massive...
A few outside sets borderline within my comfort level...
But overall were kinda soft...
If it had been top to bottom...
I would have probably just admired from shore...
Big chattering drops with plenty of face to work...
Later moved south and picked off a few along the rocks...
But the last left was a little sketchy and shallow...
So moved back to the deep water for a few more...
Got caught inside on one set that left me in that 'tween zone...
Took about 5 waves on the head...
And then an OH left reared right in front of me...
Long and workable it was the best (not biggest) wave of the day...
And the last, enough push to leave me on the sand.

Doc