by MC » Wed Nov 17, 2010 11:32 am
That's fine amigo. You don't have to believe me, but, in all honesty, I have zero, zilch, nada to do with this magazine idea. Comprende?
You're absolutely right: Nobody could ever make a living documenting the surf in the PNW full-time, regardless of the medium. But the world, although big, has all kinds of nooks and crannies that produce rideable waves. I want to see 'em all. Impossible? Yes, but there's always somewhere to go surf and shoot. I'm not trying to solely document the PNW. It's just home. It's where I'm comfortable. It's what I love. I'm not trying to "blow it up". Sure, the surfing community/communities have grown a lot in Oregon/Washington in the last 10/20/30 years, but it isn't because people are seeing the point or port orford or the north jetty on surfline, in mags or in films. It's because the industry as a whole has gone, and continues to go, more mainstream. And, wetsuits get better and better. And, places south (and even north) of here are shoulder to shoulder. Has it been documented? Yeah. These places, I'm sorry to say, are no secret. SSP is no secret. It has been documented over and over and over. The cape is no secret. It has been documented over and over and over. The Strts (find chris burkard's blog) are no secret. They have been written about, shot, surfed for a decade or more. Everywhere has. Well, maybe not everywhere, but most of the notable spots have all ran in print publications. Yet you can still go out and score most of these places with your buddy and only a handful of people, if that.
I agree, the surf here is very "blue collar". The best dudes in the water rarely wear vans, slim jeans and have stickers on their boards. I like that. And speaking of the local communities, I don't see the future of our coastal communities being overrun by surfers and the surf industry. Look at what IS going on in the local communities: nada. Sure, Lincoln City, Seaside, Newport, etc., etc. will always (hopefully) have their heads above water, but for a place to "blow up", it has to be much fairer weather, much more consistent and much more alluring. The traveling surfer(s) may come through a few times a year, but, again, I don't see a lot of people moving to the coast and blowing it all up anytime in the near future. I don't think there is enough industry on our coastline for that to happen. People from Portland and Eugene and Bend will continue to learn how to surf and come over in the summer and on the weekends and crowd the lineups, sure, that's just life. You hear Dubs and a few others talk about pre-2000. Sounded pretty nice. But, as we all know, the best surfer(s) in the water are the ones catching the waves. Furthermore, I know a lot of you ditch your "life/work" to go score a clean swell on a Wednesday. Keep it up. It keeps the stoke alive. Now I'm officially rambling.
I'm writing this from my little studio a few miles south of Seaside. It's rainy, windy as hell and completely unsurfable. It takes a different breed to do what we do up here. I think we'll be safe from hoards of people for quite some time.
I could be entirely wrong. Only time will tell.
60% of the time, it works every time.