Posted suited booted and paddled out into chest high peaky mexi-glass. Water was green and clear as it gets. Small and so glassy that when you were surfing it felt like you were riding a wave that wasn’t there, almost like invisible waves man. Punchy and easy to catch on 6’ DWS go to low end SB set up as thruster with the always trusty honeycomb AM2’s. Lots of punchy drops some shouldering, but the good ones ramped into the inside for some speed pumping and a bashable or wrapable section. Clocked 3 hours of water time with a chill local crew and then took the grom out for another hour for 4+ hours of brine time.
Wanted to stay put, but lost in majority rules cause the kiddos wanted the pool and the Ms. wanted to camp at another campgroup as the local option was pretty flooded. Woke up early yest AM stiff as hell, but long period was pulsing and I knew crowds would be out mid am. Coffee check verified hollowed offshore over-head peaks. Laced up my 6’6” dated hand shaped Merrick step up cause I knew it was going to be about tracking down that right peak and more of a getting in and straight line affair vs. the day befores rippable peaks. YU honeycombs are the only template I ride in this board and glad I packed it.
Once out solid sets were throwing pretty good. 1st 3 or so waves were mostly drops and had to do the walk around a few times, but things came together and got into a groove. Corner down the way was the call despite the work. Had one come right to me with that perfect angle tapered and throwing as it reeled down the bar towards me. Knifed the drop to some hoots…. bottomed turned, set line, stalled, grabbed the wall stood still, and got a clean in and out verified by a gentleman paddling back out in the channel
