BroVember

[INTERN]

Ah, so that's the abbreviation I couldn't figure out.

Went to Secret Spot on rising. Met with very little people in the parking lot and a bit of sun peeking through. Surf was good sized on the outside, but good luck getting out. Tried a little rip in the center, then caught endlessly in white water reform just before the sets. Moved up the beach towards the rocks and was cruising out, until caught again as I drifted south too much. Tried again and got caught with some rock swells showing on the draw. Sketched out and drifted in. Bummer. Probably could have brought the log and at least rode the reform, but what a pain to put it on the roof and trek it down to the beach.. oh well.

[buoyhead]

Waves befitting November Friday through Monday. Surfed out.

[Major Lazer]

Musta had to much pep in my step, but kinda sharted in wettie walking to paddle out. Peaky clean and green and almost empty so maybe I was kinda excited? Who knows didn't turn back. HH fast runners many throwing little glass cylinders to pull into and pretty makeable at that. If not a good flushing sure helped sharting situation. Nother golden autumn day and perfect salute to shred master snow surf ledge Jake (Burton) Carpenter. Rest in Powder!

[Howly Wolf]

That was a good day. Didn't crap my trunks, but did zip into a few and occasionally even out. Hit up the food pantry on the way home, scoring a king's ransom in expired burritos. Time to put on an extra layer of blubber for those chilly winter winds...

[Major Lazer]

Didn't crap my trunks

you somewhere warm?

[Howly Wolf]

Didn't crap [the man panties I wear beneath my wetsuit].

.

[dtrn]

Surfs-giving forecast looks great.
Not one site is in agreement on if the new swell arrives friday or saturday.

I'm going either way.
Cheers!

[Tex]

dtrn...not sure if you are hip to a local forecaster but i have found his stuff to be pretty accurate....full disclosure, I used to be neighbors with his parents until I moved out to Roseway. https://look.surf/

[dtrn]

Thanks! I haven't used look in a while.
Looks like he agrees with surflies and surf-forecast.

MSW is calling for a flat thanksgiving.
Swellinfo has a mind of its own.

WTH!

[Major Lazer]

I prefer the "Look Out the Window" surf report, but NOAA coastal forecast and Storm Surf Booty Forecast for me combined with decades plus of surfing OR.

It will not be flat. Friday looks small, but with east winds and knowing where to look there will be surfables. That said, the "Bomb Cyclone" blew up the coast range with ice and snow, so recommend staying in valley or at your Grandmas house.

[Major Lazer]

From last week....... fooking New Yorka too.

[Howly Wolf]

Beginning to feel like winter. Yesterday: drab, disorderly, dumpy. Today: clear, consistent, clean. A very cold night in between. Worth it. Feasted all morning on shapely 5-6’ ers and then cruised back to town just in time for the old lady’s Friendsgiving whatever. Scored four hours of pristine AND I’m not in the doghouse?!? That’s what I’m thankful for!

[Major Lazer]

Same same. Very cold night of renegade lodging within city limits, yet toasty in the North Face (influencer alert ) winter bag. Dreamt of razor lipped OH walls, but reality ended up being sharlpable CH thin lipped peaky lefts. Swell clocking in from 300 plus knocking it down. Had one that allowed 3 simultaneous backside hacks that had me feeling like I was surfing for points on the WCT, yet the inside section that opened up for so was prob only thigh high

Honestly one of the coldest sessions I have had in some time, hands were numb in Technobutter 1.5's. It was early and was surfing a peak in the shadows, and eventually the suns warmish rays cast down on the half dozen tuned into the productive part of the beach. Could be this old suit I've been to stubborn to replace, but alas a freshie is on its way. Family's, melenials, and others without Turkey Day commitments pored down for a bluebird beach day as I was on my way out like it was mid June. Made it back to "Grandmas house" for dinner so to speak and had quite a feast after fasting post surf. Good day. Hope ya'll had a good Surfsgiving. Cheers!

[dtrn]

weds - 5 stars @ lesser chatted about spot down south- punchy AF!
thurs - fun but snoozey, wish I brought the log.
friday - random beachy 3ft, yes I had the log, surprisingly satisfying
saturday - almost bro!
today - , and I'm surfed out

[Major Lazer]

Made it back over Sat afternoon and swell was pumping, which was a bit of a surprise as I heard it was pretty smalls in the am. Banked on an a close open beach sandbar I've been surfing at 3' to 4' that was apparently fun early, but came up in 30 minutes sometime in the early afternoon Couple heads still out scratching around for nothing. Place was walled AF. Raced to cabin low on daylight, dropped fam off, quickly got fire going, and found cover. Paddled out and just got nuked on, even in a channel. Then fooking lulled for 15 minutes and it was cold AF. Fresh new rubber was really nice, but realized pretty quickly I shoulda opted for the smoothy model vs. comp as I could feel the wind chill from the gusty frio easts. Also realized its just been small this fall feeling the juice. Took a few to adjust. To my 6'3", a little bit more rocker, and the peak I was surfing. Finally dialed in some long ones that allowed for 3 or 4 turns and took the last one in pretty much in the dark. Let out several screams changing out of my suit cause it was just stupid cold and I didn't have the shelter of my rig.

Didn't get an early start like I shoulda yest opting for sleep, warmth of the wood stove, breky, and coffee. Ended up at a crowded local and wave I don't really like unless the right is on, but fam wanted to walk into town and check out Xmas flair. Gotta keep everyone happy right. Super sonic snake session and nabbed some long slopey lazy lefts and experimented with a quad set up I didn't really like, Med JJF's with Hayden rears which has worked in my bigger board but not the 5'11" shorty. AM2's are the better fronts for quading on this deck yet Thrust still seems best despite Noel Salas's take.