May I surf some decent waves this month?

[Dano]

Ive taken my boys to the beach several times over the past couple weeks. I must be missing all the surf I just read about in this thread because I haven't seen a wave worth putting a wetsuit on for. Just small and mushy all around with plenty of wind. Thankfully I got lots of surf on my last trip home so I'm good for a while because this place can be sofa king shirty sometimes.

[Doc]

Paddled out into a swirling vortex of mediocrity today...
Several hundred feet off a deserted beach...
Sideways swells competed with the wind...
To disrupt the primary peaks...
That rose out of a green swath...
And reeled right, right, always right...
A better wave always seemed a few strokes away...
But I just settled for what came my way.

Doc

[speelyei]

a little bump in the swell, with just enough wind to completely kill it.

[pra_ggresion]

Ive taken my boys to the beach several times over the past couple weeks. I must be missing all the surf I just read about in this thread because I haven't seen a wave worth putting a wetsuit on for. Just small and mushy all around with plenty of wind. Thankfully I got lots of surf on my last trip home so I'm good for a while because this place can be sofa king shirty sometimes.

How's the foot?

[WC]

i surfed at some point this month....it was fun...

yay.

[speelyei]

was it that one up by seaside?

[WC]

ok, LOL

no, it was one of those points in time

[Tatonka]

The 4:30 check seemed good enough to get out of bed; double digit swell and period, single digit wind. Made the drive, got stoked by lack of wind; hopes soared then tanked upon pulling into the lot. I took a walk just to be sure there wasn't something hiding around the corner. Seething foamy mess, unpredictable, mushy, lumpy high tide slop. Considered the more-than-usual sketch factor of the entrance/exit for about 20 chilly minutes before returning to the car dry and grumpy. Went home.

[Doc]

I usually recon on days like those...
Hike into spots I'd never surf...
Much less hike into...
I rarely just "drive home"...
Drink heavily yes, drive home no.

Doc

[Doc]

I usually recon on days like those...
Hike into spots I'd never surf...
Much less hike into...
I rarely just "drive home"...
Drink heavily yes, drive home no.

Doc

[Tatonka]

had a short window before work...I'm on beer #ish 7 er so.

[Dano]

How's the foot?

Foot is pretty good. Its been about 15 months since the accident. I still cant run or jump off of it and it hurts alot at times (usually first thing in the morning or late at night) and I still don't have all of my range of motion back despite a steady diet of physical therapy. However I did get quite a bit of snowboarding in this past winter (the snowboard boot gave it enough stability to feel great while riding although it took a while to be able to do more than about 5 or 6 runs). I went home to Maui for a few weeks in April and at that point had not surfed since the injury 14 months earlier, so I eased myself in with some logging on the west side before hitting Hookipa and Honolua a bunch of times. It felt great to surf, but I lack alot of the little nuanced movement in the foot that I used to take for granted. Where I would want to make a small mid face turn, I would flail and bog. When I wanted to stomp down on the drop I didn't always have the power. When I set up a big carving turn I wouldn't be able to drive through it and would either bog or fall. In short I have a ways to go. I got alot of super fun waves (even if I flailed on them) and am stoked as hell to be surfing again after that whole experience, but am still a long way from where I was before I got hurt.

Anyway, Thanks for asking! Aloha!

[Gazsurf]

We need an "after" pic.... the one from 15mos. ago was gnarly!

[Wilbur Kookmeyer]

had a short window before work...

I have those every day.
A few while at work.
And at least 1 or 2 in the evening.

[Doc]

Dano said among other things:

I lack alot of the little nuanced movement in the foot...
Where I would want to make a small mid face turn, I would flail and bog.
When I wanted to stomp down on the drop I didn't always have the power.
When I set up a big carving turn I wouldn't be able to drive through it and would either bog or fall.

Sounds like my surfing without injury.

Doc