by tippy toes » Fri Oct 15, 2010 9:19 pm
4 consecutive days of perfection. wearing the shorty suit, no boots, no sleeves....luvin' the juice, lots of sea lions, snapped a leash, long jetty swim against heavy rip... feared for life, currents, animals of the water, out of breath... went to car, retrieved another leash, back out for more OH sets, hollow, lots of room.... lots of thick walls, only the locals out these days. goddam, love it so much.
but dammm the north wind today, water getting cooler.... still lots of love from the sea. crazy. sea lion barks filtering in through open windows at night, dreams of silver water, piles and piles of perfect glassy wonder.
SURF WHERE YOU LIVE