February Surf Fables...

[Spider]

you do it every hour

[Doc]

Big lumpy ones yesterday...
First one was the best...
Paddled out solo...
So wasn't too sure of the lineup...
Saw a bunch of birds a 20 feet inside...
So paddled in towards them...
Turned and was greeted by a large wave...
Thought about scrabbling over it...
Instead, turned and went...
Big, lined up and lumpy...
Got on the escalator back out...
Got a 1/2 dozen more...
Had one early exit and paddle out the back...
That I narrowly escaped getting thrashed...
10' plus faces closing out on the bar...
Assisted me in paddling out quickly.

Doc

[erzats]

Just got out of the water after my second surf with the haligonians. 34 degree air, 34 degree water, and 20kt sideshore winds were challenging but it was now or never. Got some fun lefts and then called it realizing that snowball feet don't make you surf any better. Want to come back here when the dominant offshores are blowing and there's as much swell in the water. HFX is a cool town too.

[Tatonka]

4:30am buoy check; all systems go. In the rig and driving by 4:45, turn around 5 minutes later, too low on gas and nothing within range open till 6:00. Hijack family mobile, throw car seats and diaper bag in the yard and back on the road by 5:00. Smooth sailing, quick change, and ready to be wet before sunrise. Find my lull, step on some slime and face plant in the boulders at the water line. Check board for dings, looks ok, round two. Just me and a couple porpoises for the sunrise as big shifty sets march through a light offshore breeze. Have it solo for an hour before some friendly faces show, an hour later and there were a few more. Swell was noticeably dropping all session but things got cleaner with the tide and winds stayed light. Four hours before the arms reached complete noodle status, home in time for the third period of the hockey game.

[pra_ggresion]

Nice. I thought mine was pretty good but that was way better.
Sure would have been perfect conditions for a 6'6" thumbtail, though.

[SlimVest]

Sure would have been perfect conditions for a 6'6" thumbtail, though.

I've got a 6'5. it was pretty fun.

[Spent]

Nice. I thought mine was pretty good but that was way better.
Sure would have been perfect conditions for a 6'6" thumbtail, though.

i had better things to do than try out a spanking new board in good waves.

[holddown]

Confession surf report:

2/22, Mon:
I took the 9-0 noserider outside at EpiSo around sunset. I had to take the rip straight out to the SW to get out and then paddle back around to the North nearly a half mile to where a right was breaking on an outer sand bar.

It turned out to be quite a bit bigger outside than I expected and I didn't really have the right equipment with the round nose. I found one big right that was 2X or so and then paddled back around to get in position.

I went for another one, but didn't quite catch it. Unfortunately, there was a beast behind it. I paddled frantically up the face and slid off the side of the longboard near the top. The wave grabbed my board and I felt a tug on my leg, then nothing. Crap, it’s getting dark, I’m alone, and I’m more than a quarter mile out with no board.

I stayed calm and started to swim toward the shore, trying to get any help from the waves that I could. I knew there were some deeper water channels inside, so I was a bit concerned about current. After a few minutes of making progress toward the inside, I spotted my board floating fin up on the inside in deeper water. I swam as fast as I could to the board and grabbed it before another set hit. I was pretty winded by then, so I made the rest of the way in at a leisurely pace. At the beach, I inspected my leash and it was fine. The string through the leash plug had snapped. By the time I walked back down the beach to the truck, it was dark.

[Tatonka]

sketchy, glad it turned out ok.

[Wilbur Kookmeyer]

HD...you got serious balls.

A lot of you bros do.

Some have more balls than brains, but serious balls none the less.

Stories like that make my sack tingle.
Honestly...it scares the crap out of me.

I got The Fear early on in my surfing years....and never got over it.

I don't think there is shame in that. At Least I do not feel it.

I choose to live...and get scared shitless...vicariously through bros like you.

Just stay alive long enough to entertain me for a while more.

[SooLoo]

We were standing on top of the pub laughing the entire time.

[bluesilver]

Hey Wilbur, I actually had to cut one of my balls off. The pain of carrying that weight around was too much... Plus It was hard to find a pair of well fitting pants that didn't make me look like I belong in an 80's music video.


Glad you're OK Holdown.