Vax Sessions

[smithgrind]

On Sunday I was gifted special waves at very special spot on my birthday. The line up
was shrouded in a fog bank so dense you couldn’t see the waves, just the whitewater was visible.
HH to OH rights greeted those willing to follow their senses and navigate a path through the vaporous
wall of misty mystery. I opted for my 6’9” middie and it paid off. Waves were a bit mushy on the take off and
one had to carry some glide around the initial crumbling shoulder section, however, the inside was reeling and peeling over the reef and just kept going and going. I would guess some rides were close to a hundy yards.
Epic sesh.

[Major Lazer]

Sounds like an epic B Day sesh and HBD!

[smithgrind]

Sounds like an epic B Day sesh and HBD!

Gracias, Dubstar.
I hadn’t been to that break since my kid was born, that’s over five years now.
One of my all time sessions there, for sure.

[Howly Wolf]

Your report inspired me to paddle out into the fog yesterday, smithgrind, but my session was not nearly as epic as yours. No 100 yard rides; maybe 10 yards at best.... Always fun to enrich the senses though and get visions when there's little to no visibility. Glad your birthday session provided; many happy returns!

Went quality over quantity for the labor day weekend. Recent hip injury loosened up after a few surfs, but kept it 1-2 sessions per day, as not to over do it. Surfed a few faves over 5 days, with little to no company for the most part, although on land I'd wonder aloud what I was thinking going to the coast on a holiday weekend? The answer of course is that the season is changing and some extended water time is much needed to shake off the rust and clear the brain haze that lingers in during extended valley time.

Surf cleaned up a bit after the weekend, as did the traffic and general vibe. Fully agree with ML's sandbar assessment; hopefully forecasted groundswell will help carve it out a little? We'll see...

[Major Lazer]

5 day weekend WTF! Labor Day weekend typically provides decent surf and this one did just that. Crowds seemed per usual of any weekend with swell and good conditions these days. We're we lurking in the same zone again? Gonna stay closer to home for the time being. Maybe venture a little further next time

[Howly Wolf]

3 day weekend/2 days working. No Sprinter, no tech job-- just making the most of covid times.

And yeah, I do believe our sessions overlapped on Labor Day. Recognized a face out of context for the spot-- a guy I've surfed with enough times before to know has a head for tactics and will scramble for waves. You were right to stay on the UO buoy; I paddled out to the other peak you mentioned. Wasn't really happening, but got a few kicks when I was able to scratch in.

[Chanel Derrière]

Funnily enough I've been finding waves. Mostly on peaks to myself. I'd like to complain but I'm not going to. I do my best work alone. I've seen some of you in the distance though. And that one friend of yours. He was surfing pretty well to be honest.

[Major Lazer]

out of context for the spot

What? I've been surfing there for 25 years now

And if you guys ever need a stinking fin screw..... I ordered some of which will always have on hand!


https://www.amazon.com/Screws-Future-Stand-paddle-boards/dp/B01DPTQMLS/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Future+fin+screws&qid=1631301060&sr=8-5

Disclaimer: I don't typically order surf stuff on Amazon but......

[Howly Wolf]

I've been surfing there for 25 years now

Maybe so, but I've only seen you at short sands bruh.

[Howly Wolf]

I'd like to complain but I'm not going to.

We can always count on the mysterious Chanel Derrière to cast light upon dark waters. Thank you for your relentless positivity! Do you attribute such optimism to your channel bottom twin fin midlength? And if so, does it go left?

[Major Lazer]

[Chanel Derrière]

I'd like to complain but I'm not going to.

We can always count on the mysterious Chanel Derrière to cast light upon dark waters. Thank you for your relentless positivity! Do you attribute such optimism to your channel bottom twin fin midlength? And if so, does it go left?

Yes. Actually caught my biggest wave since last winter on it, going left on Saturday. Just south of two minor rescue operations. Paddled out at post-contest O Clock, high tide, just as the swell was really filling in. One dude got sucked out in the rip with no wetsuit and panicked. Ex-Osper Slim, guided him back in. Then another dude with a camera got sucked out and also panicked. One of the crew gave cameraman his board to get back in while he swam the camera equipment in. I should note rescue dude was about 6 Tecates deep at this point.

I blissfully missed all this as I sat on a wide peak, easing into a few on the 7'6" 6 channelled bottom- Twin fin midlenth.

Also surfed it a few times in way smaller conditions leading up to the swell and it was pretty lackluster. Def more of a board for shoulder high plus with open faces... fun for going straight very fast in little zippers though...

[Major Lazer]

Contest bros eh....... Slim Ex? Still posts every now and again. And now a OSP hero none the less!

[Major Lazer]

Paddled the new mid out in dumpy closeouts. Was thinking I'd be able to get some roll ins on the outside and an early line in to utilize the glide of this board, but board does not paddle into waves much better than my 5'9" fish despite having quite a bit more volume. Super sketchy on the ones I did scratch into. Never again. Design seems a little nicheie and not enough waves in that niche around here like these...... https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/video-exclusive-hurricane-larrys-magic-montauk/131462

[Chanel Derrière]

We had no idea there was a contest and had planned on surfing other spots... alas...

As much as Slim resembles The Rock, I think his primary rescue tactic was telling trunk-guy where not to paddle and where to paddle. Anyway, no-one drowned as far as I could tell.