by jerichv » Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:54 pm
im not sure if im over it completely, i might have lost the stoke for sliding on waves. for instance, i rode a wave from the top of second point all the way to the beach yesterday evening. a very very long ride even for Malibu( well over 100 yards+ close to a minute long on the wave). a year or 2 ago i would have been so stoked after kicking out. But i was'nt that stoked. i relocated here primarily for surf and now i find myself surfing just for that fact. i mean if i dont surf often, im down here in vain. so i was thinking last night, if im not stoked here where there is almost perfect waves and 70 degree water, how would i get excited if and when i move back to the northwest? i think im in a surf/quarterlife crisis. someone help me.
say it!