This summer was...

by **wetchicken** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 12:20 pm

well?

what was it?

by **Gazsurf** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 12:28 pm

Not as bad as I was led to believe by the liberalmedia .......

by **Doc** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 11:28 pm

not all time...
but nuthin wrong with it.

doc

by **wyosurf** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 1:48 am

i didn't drown.
yet

by **riverjetty** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:04 am

Windy should be an option.

by **wetchicken** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 5:11 am

2-short

as usual

by **Ceedog** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 6:54 am

One good swell. The rest was a blur.

by **Dub Star** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:02 am

Weather aside it's starting to piss me off.

by **smithgrind** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:04 am

August was memorable for me. Early summer was quite unimpressive.

by **bluesilver** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:44 am

Summer was... wet, cold, pathetic - like fall but without the surf

by **jerichv** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 10:48 am

i had a good summer wavewise.
surfing 3 or 4 days a week.
the sad thing is, i think im
over surfing. and i dont even know
how it happened.... :cry:

by **bluesilver** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:54 am

jerichv wrote:i had a good summer wavewise.
surfing 3 or 4 days a week.
the sad thing is, i think im
over surfing. and i dont even know
how it happened....

By over surfing, you mean your doing it too much... or your sick of it and done with it altogether?
I can see the possibility of getting sick of it after doing it 4 times a week and dealing with arseholes in the water. Like all good things - sometimes you need a break to remind you why something is so great.

by **jerichv** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:54 pm

im not sure if im over it completely, i might have lost the stoke for sliding on waves. for instance, i rode a wave from the top of second point all the way to the beach yesterday evening. a very very long ride even for Malibu( well over 100 yards+ close to a minute long on the wave). a year or 2 ago i would have been so stoked after kicking out. But i was'nt that stoked. i relocated here primarily for surf and now i find myself surfing just for that fact. i mean if i dont surf often, im down here in vain. so i was thinking last night, if im not stoked here where there is almost perfect waves and 70 degree water, how would i get excited if and when i move back to the northwest? i think im in a surf/quarterlife crisis. someone help me.

by nm » Mon Sep 08, 2008 1:03 pm

sounds like a definite case of "over training" ie: surf burn out

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/04/health/nutrition/04BEST.html?_r=1&ref=health&oref=slogin

stop surfing. clear it right up.

by **scubetubeular** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 1:13 pm

I know what your saying Jerich.

I took almost 5 years off from surfing from about 1995 to 2000 or so.
I just wasn't into it and it kind of left my life completely.
Plus I was bummed over all the really really cool people who became surfers due to all the new media attention and rise of some popular corporate brands among other things.

Then around 2000 I was in a depressed state and started thinking of all the things I used to do that made me stoked. Surfing was the main thing.
So, I got a new board, new suit that fit me and have been back at it on and off due to some major injuries for 8 years now.

Although now I'm back where I was in 95'
Somewhat over it and don't have much drive/stoke to surf a lot any more.
I hope it doesn't take me another 5 years to come back to it.
Trips and exploration seem to always help but my budget is way too tight this year.

Don't move back here in the winter what ever you do.

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