by Moe » Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:23 pm
It has been over 3 weeks sinced I had surfed last and that was on a terrible day, before that another 2-3 weeks and I live and work a 1/2 mile from the ocean. Raced from work today, trying to outrun the sun. Drove a half mile to the closest break and threw my suit on as fast as I could. Paddled out with two other guys only to find 20 minutes of current and whitewater. Eventually I was rewarded with the sight of overhead peaks, offshore winds, and an amazing December day. Chased peaks as the sun quickly fell with nothing to show for it. Finally, one wave, late drop backside... raced down the face and quickly snuck out before being annihilated. Turned around to get another only to see some larger waves explode in front of me. Got in and realized I had drifted a solid 1/2 mile south. Called it a day but it was a good one.