a quitter never wins

[erzats]

I think these sentiments were expressed by Wilbur some time back. Anyhow, a good article to keep the valley kooks stoked:

http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/opinion-never-quit-surfing/

--

[riverjetty]

Exposed beachbreaks and onshore winds will sure slow you down.

[Wilbur Kookmeyer]

I have always been a believer in the "if you don't surf now, you never did" ideal.

I still believe it. Sort of.

It causes such internal turmoil for me. Not a single day goes by that I do not think about surfing.

Think about that.

Not a single day.

I first paddled out somewhere around 10,220 days ago.

For 10,000+ days I have thought about surfing. Dreamt about it. Planned for it. Missed it. Cursed it. Hated it. Longed for it. Wanted nothing but to get away from it. And schemed to submerse my entire life into it.

In this article, and so many others like it, we continue to read and subject ourselves to the idea that it is this blissful existence. Like a drug. Like a religion. Like "the answer" lies within those currents and invisible energy bands.

The truth is, surfing sucks @ss.
It's horrible.
It is destructive, consuming, irritating, frustrating, and depressing.

I cannot think of any other single thing in my life, or anyone's life that I know, where so much time, energy, money, and peace of mind was sacrificed so that one could have but a glimpse of the euphoric.

It steals time. It steals relationships. It steals lives.

And for what?

So you can have a few seconds of "whappap"?
So you can fancy yourself more soulful than the next guy?
So you can posture about what a "dedicated surfer" you are?
So you can have an excuse to blow off all of the things that would actually make your life better?

If you don't surf now you never did.
No, if you do not contemplate the above each and ever day of your life you have never surfed.

And that is the truth of it all.

I have $2000 in boards, and $500 in neoprene hanging in my garage. At any moment I can draw you a detailed diagram of where each of them are, but I could not tell you where my torque wrench is.

I envision those boards in my head every day.
i miss the boards gone by more than I do the women that have passed under the current.

The truth is, surfing sucks.

[Doc]

I like when people quit surfing.

Doc

[smithgrind]

I like when people quit surfing.

doc

I agree.

Quit while you're ahead.

[scubetubeular]

Nicely said Wilbur.

[McDing]

Wilbur My Boy! -----------Not often I would agree with the "sheep" of this forum, but I would say under the circumstance; Give it up bro. There must be a detox somewhere in Kansas or Nebraska that specializes in these rather rare cases like yours. Surfing is supposed to be a joy and if it isn't you should probably take up donkey-kong, ping-pong or something less stressful. Considering the crowds of the day, I would hope there are more cases like yours.

[tippy toes]

as a well loved "sheep" i have to put my two cents in (before the farmers take me out back and have their way with me...)

i agree with doc. i love it when people stop.
get the flotsam
and jetsam
out of my goddam

way

peace

[Ceedog]

Wilb, you already stopped, that's what's really killing you. Denial is beneath you, just admit defeat.

This is a good time of year for quitters, hell I do it every other week or so and I'm only 10 mins away.

[erzats]

I have always been a believer in the "if you don't surf now, you never did" ideal.

I still believe it. Sort of.

It causes such internal turmoil for me. Not a single day goes by that I do not think about surfing.

Think about that.

Not a single day.

I first paddled out somewhere around 10,220 days ago.

For 10,000+ days I have thought about surfing. Dreamt about it. Planned for it. Missed it. Cursed it. Hated it. Longed for it. Wanted nothing but to get away from it. And schemed to submerse my entire life into it.

In this article, and so many others like it, we continue to read and subject ourselves to the idea that it is this blissful existence. Like a drug. Like a religion. Like "the answer" lies within those currents and invisible energy bands.

The truth is, surfing sucks @ss.
It's horrible.
It is destructive, consuming, irritating, frustrating, and depressing.

I cannot think of any other single thing in my life, or anyone's life that I know, where so much time, energy, money, and peace of mind was sacrificed so that one could have but a glimpse of the euphoric.

It steals time. It steals relationships. It steals lives.

And for what?

So you can have a few seconds of "whappap"?
So you can fancy yourself more soulful than the next guy?
So you can posture about what a "dedicated surfer" you are?
So you can have an excuse to blow off all of the things that would actually make your life better?

If you don't surf now you never did.
No, if you do not contemplate the above each and ever day of your life you have never surfed.

And that is the truth of it all.

I have $2000 in boards, and $500 in neoprene hanging in my garage. At any moment I can draw you a detailed diagram of where each of them are, but I could not tell you where my torque wrench is.

I envision those boards in my head every day.
i miss the boards gone by more than I do the women that have passed under the current.

The truth is, surfing sucks.

sounds like you need to get in the water. Either that or you are a caveat.

[bluesilver]

The truth is, surfing sucks @ss.
It's horrible.
It is destructive, consuming, irritating, frustrating, and depressing.

It steals time. It steals relationships. It steals lives.

I could not agree less. You have a mental problem possibly.

[Dub Star]

Surfing’s fun n‘ all, but for the most part just another way to waste time. I tried to quit a few times, but just keep coming back for some reason. Obsessing about it is just ridiculous cause there are just so many other killer things in life to stoke on. West of Jesus was pretty bad, Doc Paskowitz is a fukin womanizing douch bag, and Surfer Mag sucks worse than the OSP. Jus sayin.

[pra_ggresion]

Surfing’s fun n‘ all, but for the most part just another way to waste time

Correction; it is the absolutely best way to waste time. Surfing is lord.

[Dub Star]

Surfing’s fun n‘ all, but for the most part just another way to waste time

Correction; it is the absolutely best way to waste time. Surfing is lord.

Yeah been there done that. Went Atheist, much better now.

[scubetubeular]

I quit for about 6 years.
The only reason I can think of as to why is just that my drive and stoke to search and explore for waves just faded out. That and it got super popular and really cool here in OR to surf. I surfed here cuz it wasn't popular and I didn't have to deal with all the BS I dealt with in So Cal. When I wasn't surfing all the time I didn't miss it. I never really thought about it too much. I was busy doing other things that stoked me. Snowboarding year round, motocross, music tours etc. I had plenty of other sh!t to occupy my time.

When I picked it back up 2002-ish I realized that the vibe in OR had become much like the So Cal vibe and when I would surf back in down there the vibe is now mellow and much like OR used to be in the 80's and 90's.

I'm stoked to get good surf. I still run waves through my head over and over to try and remember that epic ride. I still get real chatty and like to celebrate with many beers after a great session but its just surfing for christ sakes.