this is just about right...

by **tippy toes** » Mon Dec 28, 2009 4:19 pm

a little kernel of love from my favorite hypocrit:

"My whole life is this escape; my whole life is this wave I drop into, set the whole thing up, pull off a bottom turn, pull up into it, and shoot for my life, going for broke man. And behind me all this shite goes over my back: the screaming parents, teachers, the police [laughs], priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers ---they're all going over the falls into the reef; headfirst into the motherfucking reef, and BWAH! And I'm shooting for my life. And when it starts to close out I pull out and go down the back, and catch another wave, and do the same goddamned thing again." -- Miki Dora

by **McDing** » Mon Dec 28, 2009 6:05 pm

Question? Why do you consider him a hypcrit?

by **riverjetty** » Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:32 pm

I thought he was pretty good on Last Train to Clarksville.

by **tippy toes** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:25 pm

McDing wrote:Question? Why do you consider him a hypcrit?

good question, and ellusive answer... he spent much of his life lambasting hollywood for blowing up the malibu scene, yet he happily lapped up the milk from that same plate.

maybe hypocritical, maybe pure genious. i still haven't decided. i do know that i love him none the less.

by **holddown** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:35 pm

He might have just been an a-hole. I'm reading his biography now, so I'm yet to perform an opinion.

by nm » Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:48 pm

holddown wrote:....I'm yet to perform an opinion.

huh?

you gonna act that out for us? ....or just create another spreadsheet?

by **Wilbur Kookmeyer** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:55 pm

tippy toes wrote: maybe pure genious.

At least someone in this thread is....

by **tippy toes** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 6:32 pm

oops. i can't spell. i never claimed to be the genius.

by **holddown** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 6:49 pm

nm wrote:
holddown wrote:....I'm yet to perform an opinion.

huh?

you gonna act that out for us? ....or just create another spreadsheet?

Ha! Drinking & posting strikes again. And as far as the spreadsheet goes, I'm planning on taking it to a whole new level.

by **intrepid** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:41 am

holddown wrote:
nm wrote:
holddown wrote:....I'm yet to perform an opinion.

huh?

you gonna act that out for us? ....or just create another spreadsheet?

Ha! Drinking & posting strikes again. And as far as the spreadsheet goes, I'm planning on taking it to a whole new level.

Like the third dimension? ...back to the future?

by **brdsurf** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 4:37 pm

If I recall though, it seemed that many of those surfers hired to do stunt work and so forth for those early hollywierd films didnt really see the surf boom coming the way that it did. I can feel some sympathy for someone who was there before the explosion of crowds and understand why they may be a bitter towards them after the dust settled (did it ever?). I guess maybe I would have a different opinion if someone did that in the 70s or something. But he seemed to have hated the whole surf establishment, including contests in the end. Not because of the crowds it seemed but due to the control or idea of being judged by your surfing.

But to each their own.

by **escondido_vida** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 5:45 pm

Such a heartthrobe in his little scene in Endless summer when he is side shimmying the board in malibu. Love that part!

by **Scottnorby** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:14 pm

Met him on the beach in Encinitas California once.
Trust me....he is an a-hole.
Super egotistical.

by **tippy toes** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:36 pm

... and now he's dead.

by **Friend Of The Hawk** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 3:28 pm

Dora in north county?
Huh....
And what year would that have been?

this is just about right...

this is just about right...

Question?

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