by Doc » Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:39 pm
Well to begin with...
I did not go surfing today...
I was working...
If I had gone surfing...
Here is what it might have been like...
Check a duney spot...
Another van is parked there, good sign...
Trot (yes I trotted, had I been there) up the hill...
Greeted by spindrifting reelers...
Scan the peaks for van owners...
Spy them way, way out at a north peak...
Assess the paddle...
Decide to check a secret spot...
I'll call it Pelican Condo Epicovecenter...
It's not working...
Quickly head back to spot A...
Van still there, but worried that I will have to surf alone...
I call Gaz, waking him from naptime...
He informs me I am desperate...
I call Sooloo...
He informs me I am delusional...
Change, intermittently trot, hop, & walk up the beach...
I find a spot south of where the 2 are surfing...
And work my way out...
Contrary to popular misconception...
I was riding a 6'8" quad...
Not a longboard...
Because these were shortboard waves...
Make it out 100 yards south of the others...
And watch a crab float rip by headed south...
I realized after a moment...
It was actually me headed north...
Caught a fun but decent left...
Bowled hard, and exploded on the bar...
Battled my way back out...
Got another similar left...
Same result...
Took a right...
Which was like a standing wave...
Then got another pretty good left...
Which, within that 4 wave apan...
Had taken me from Spot A...
To spot PCE...
I got out and walked back to Spot A...
Which was about 1/2 my session...
Sooloo was there on the dune laughing at me...
Since I had been to PCE...
I drove there and surfed again...
This time sticking with perception...
I rode the 9'8"...
It was weird...
It was windy...
But got a couple...
Which would not have been the case...
If I hadn't gone...
Which, as we all know...
I never did.
Doc
"If you don't surf...don't start".