by Clamchowdah » Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:21 pm
Whatsup everyone. Clamchowdah here, first time post, have been lurking on the site for a couple months now.
Grew up snowboarding in New England and surfed sporadically in a few different places from New Jersey to Maine. I now live in WA somewhere along the I-5 corridor, ditched the snowboard and the lift tickets and now surf every weekend or whenever my work schedule allows it.
I’ve surfed everywhere in OR/WA from Manzanita to La Push to SOJDF; the last of which, despite being fickle as a pickle, is my absolute favorite place to surf up here when it is working.
I would assess my ability level as intermediate. My biggest obstacle right now has to be paddling technique/swimming fitness. I can consistently ride and maneuver on larger waves for a relative novice (head high and overhead +), if I can make it out the back. I am a bigger guy who is in pretty good shape as required by my job but I simply need more reps paddling out in big surf, and am trying to incorporate more swimming into my daily workout routines. I have definitely gotten my fair share of thrashings and caught in a couple scary rips, which has been humbling and taught me that Sometimes it’s better to improve just from being at the beach and watching the break work without risking your life or that of others.
I have found the reputation for confrontational localism at the “notorious” breaks to be largely unfounded as long as you show respect in the lineup. Everything that I’ve experienced has been a lot of bark and not a whole lot of bite. Perhaps some of it is my fault for being generally competent on spot recons and stumbling on someone else’s treasure. I think it’s all absolutely worth it though. I’m extremely grateful to be able to live in such a majestic part of the world and surf in these pristine areas beholden to such natural beauty. I certainly understand the intent behind trying to protect it!
Overall, Ive caught the bug. I’ve resolved to live near the ocean for the rest of my life. As a twenty something working 60-90 hours a week, this sport has been a godsend the last couple years. Whether it’s challenging myself physically and mentally, becoming immersed in nature, or simply using it as an excuse not to go out and party with my peers, I cannot stress what a positive impact surfing has had on my life.
Perhaps the biggest lesson I’ve learned - if you seek it, you shall find!