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The 3 days late April surf thread.........

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The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby Gazsurf » Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:12 pm

Because it's been sooooo farking epic that no one has had time to think it mattered. :roll:
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby wanty » Sun Apr 04, 2010 2:20 pm

Somebody kill me. i've just decided to put surfing far away in my mind, its the easiest way to cope. but i'm sure all you dweebs have been "scoring"....
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby SooLoo » Sun Apr 04, 2010 3:51 pm

Today is awesome! happy bunnies and painted eggs day kooks.
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby Ceedog » Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:35 am

Who cares about surfing anyways. I'm not too bummed to be taking my break right now.
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby speelyei » Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:42 am

somebody might have seen me, and asked themselves "what the hell is that guy doing out there?"

I will tell you.

See, I'm a pioneer. And I'm also doing a public service.

I'm resetting the margins, I'm re-calibrating the scale. I'm redefining the language... just what is a "wave" anyway?
People talk about conditions, they paint with broad strokes. Is there a ceiling, how good can it get? Is there a zero point? Can it get any worse? I'm here to help define the construct of surfing. Is it skilled activity in a challenging environment? Is it experiential? How much is internal, how much is external?

In the wind, in the rain, in the cold... symbols lose their value. What is swell, what is a wind-wave, what is fetch? My focus is on not aspirating the untreated water. We're just splitting hairs, after all. When the wind flips your board up into your frozen lips and chin, does it really matter if it's a Surftech? The aqueous environment will dictate the move. This where surfing becomes reactive, not proactive. Words like "left" and "right" lose their meaning. The surfer closest to the peak is the one buried in whitewater. Wooden hands scratch without purchase, the wind moves us sideways, the current carries us where it will. The Tao, flowing, fight not the current, re-align your chi flow. A pit drops, there is a respite, "from chaos comes order". If William S Burroughs could script your surf session, this is what it would be.

How many hollow oaths will you swear? "I'll never drink again". Of course you will. Like I told the other garbage men in the water... if nothing else we have proven something to ourselves: we'll surf anything. There is no wave beyond salvation, the right hands will create art from refuse.

What was I doing out there? Redefining the scope of my surfing experience.

did the waves suck? sure, but having a few laughs with friends can't be beat.
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby Moe » Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:38 pm

You've caught my interest speelyei... when and where did these shenanigans occur? Was it near your house? Was it near my house? More details :D
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby speelyei » Mon Apr 05, 2010 3:08 pm

nahh, me and team fossilgrom split the difference and grovelled in the estuarine plume and nuclear winds. It was stupid, like being a leaf in a hot tub.
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby Moe » Mon Apr 05, 2010 4:02 pm

nahh, me and team fossilgrom split the difference and grovelled in the estuarine plume and nuclear winds. It was stupid, like being a leaf in a hot tub.


Sounds like fun :)
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby Chunderkat » Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:06 am

It was stupid, like being a leaf in a hot tub

A very very small leaf in a very very COLD hot tub
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby RockyVonTone » Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:28 pm

snow...
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby fossilgrom » Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:14 am

Nice bit of writing there Spee. You actually convinced me that I had a good time. It weren't all that bad I guess - it wasn't crowded and I aint even sick yet.
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby RXXL » Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:48 pm

Got hailed on for a bit but the sun was out as were the waves... Was fun till the north showed up...
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby Friend Of The Hawk » Sun Apr 11, 2010 2:03 pm

Second day of good surf.......Now everyone will go home,bring on Monday... 8)
If we can't be free, at least we can be cheap.....
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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby Doc » Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:52 pm

Even you were gone Monday...
By the time I paddled out at least...
Glad I did too...
Because recon south...
Did not yield a 2nd go round...
Pretty fun surf..
Surfing a new (to me) board...
9'4 single...
Sets seemed bigger than 5 foot...
Maybe like 6 foot at least...
Got caught by outside sets...
At least 3 times...
After 3 hours picked off an outside left...
In a sea of rights (this day)..
That deposited me...
On the beach...
In knee deep water...
It was a good wave to end on.

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Re: The 3 days late April surf thread.........

Postby tippy toes » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:01 pm

3 days in a row. hell yeah! first 3-day run of surf in recent memory. tomorrow looking to be #4. the south showing up at fav spot making fun wedges and rad rights. weekday bliss, empty-ish line ups. happy happy. my new job is 2 blocks from the beach. finally, got my priorities in line.
SURF WHERE YOU LIVE
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