by Doc » Thu Apr 22, 2010 10:32 pm
I walked that way too today...
8am check lowered hope pretty low...
1pm recheck made it lower still...
The drive south was full of surf sorrow...
Walked down sans board...
Saw the only place on the coast (I'm guessing)...
That was relatively smooth...
And pretty soft...
And getting sunny...
So ran back up...
And got the new Jim Phillips single-fin...
Some interesting cross swell...
Caused lumpy A-frames...
Some were just a peak...
That didn't do much at all...
But every now and then things would line up...
Caught a couple chest high screamers...
And a couple that connected to the inside...
Where it was sucking up and hollowing out...
Moved in there as the tide filled in...
But sketchy on a 9'4" intactness-wise...
But way better than I expected...
Which was pretty much nothing.
Doc
"If you don't surf...don't start".