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Because it's been sooooo farking epic that no one has had time to think it mattered.

Somebody kill me. i've just decided to put surfing far away in my mind, its the easiest way to cope. but i'm sure all you dweebs have been "scoring"....

Today is awesome! happy bunnies and painted eggs day kooks.

Who cares about surfing anyways. I'm not too bummed to be taking my break right now.

somebody might have seen me, and asked themselves "what the hell is that guy doing out there?"

I will tell you.

See, I'm a pioneer. And I'm also doing a public service.

I'm resetting the margins, I'm re-calibrating the scale. I'm redefining the language... just what is a "wave" anyway?
People talk about conditions, they paint with broad strokes. Is there a ceiling, how good can it get? Is there a zero point? Can it get any worse? I'm here to help define the construct of surfing. Is it skilled activity in a challenging environment? Is it experiential? How much is internal, how much is external?

In the wind, in the rain, in the cold... symbols lose their value. What is swell, what is a wind-wave, what is fetch? My focus is on not aspirating the untreated water. We're just splitting hairs, after all. When the wind flips your board up into your frozen lips and chin, does it really matter if it's a Surftech? The aqueous environment will dictate the move. This where surfing becomes reactive, not proactive. Words like "left" and "right" lose their meaning. The surfer closest to the peak is the one buried in whitewater. Wooden hands scratch without purchase, the wind moves us sideways, the current carries us where it will. The Tao, flowing, fight not the current, re-align your chi flow. A pit drops, there is a respite, "from chaos comes order". If William S Burroughs could script your surf session, this is what it would be.

How many hollow oaths will you swear? "I'll never drink again". Of course you will. Like I told the other garbage men in the water... if nothing else we have proven something to ourselves: we'll surf anything. There is no wave beyond salvation, the right hands will create art from refuse.

What was I doing out there? Redefining the scope of my surfing experience.

did the waves suck? sure, but having a few laughs with friends can't be beat.

You've caught my interest speelyei... when and where did these shenanigans occur? Was it near your house? Was it near my house? More details

nahh, me and team fossilgrom split the difference and grovelled in the estuarine plume and nuclear winds. It was stupid, like being a leaf in a hot tub.

nahh, me and team fossilgrom split the difference and grovelled in the estuarine plume and nuclear winds. It was stupid, like being a leaf in a hot tub.

Sounds like fun

It was stupid, like being a leaf in a hot tub

A very very small leaf in a very very COLD hot tub

snow...

Nice bit of writing there Spee. You actually convinced me that I had a good time. It weren't all that bad I guess - it wasn't crowded and I aint even sick yet.

Got hailed on for a bit but the sun was out as were the waves... Was fun till the north showed up...

Second day of good surf.......Now everyone will go home,bring on Monday...

Even you were gone Monday...
By the time I paddled out at least...
Glad I did too...
Because recon south...
Did not yield a 2nd go round...
Pretty fun surf..
Surfing a new (to me) board...
9'4 single...
Sets seemed bigger than 5 foot...
Maybe like 6 foot at least...
Got caught by outside sets...
At least 3 times...
After 3 hours picked off an outside left...
In a sea of rights (this day)..
That deposited me...
On the beach...
In knee deep water...
It was a good wave to end on.

Doc

3 days in a row. hell yeah! first 3-day run of surf in recent memory. tomorrow looking to be #4. the south showing up at fav spot making fun wedges and rad rights. weekday bliss, empty-ish line ups. happy happy. my new job is 2 blocks from the beach. finally, got my priorities in line.