Just found out a couple of days ago that the original local at JR has passed away.
Some of you old guys might remember Jim Van Dame who owned the old JR Shell gas station back in the '70's and was the first surfer to live full time at JR. (I was the second.)
Anyway, Jim had moved back to California after receiving his amnesty in 1975 leaving me the only resident local for the next 12 years or so.
He died from an aneurism followed by a heart attack as he was being transferred from one hospital to another.
He was a year or so younger than me and would have been 63 or 64 this year I think.
We were both pals and business partners for a short time and he will always have a place in my heart as he lent me his board the first time I ever saw JR break, in December of 1973. He didn't know me from a hole in the ground but could tell I was jonesing to go out as it was five feet and perfect.
I caught one wave and rode no further than 50 feet or so but was instantly hooked on the place and I suppose that was the spark that lit my desire to live near there and ride the point as much as possible.
It took another year or so to facilitate that but on May 1st of 1975 I moved in to a little cabin on the beach at JR. Two days later I turned 30.
Today I am 20 days away from turning 65.
Time flies when you're having a good time.
R.I.P. James Tyler Van Dame.
Glad I knew you.
Take care.