Doc wrote:Helped that only 3 people out of the 20or so out could surf...
And were on the proper surfboards...
doc
y'know, almost everyone here (oregon) sucks, really. regardless of board choice.
even the people who shred don't shred that hard.
I mean, there's plenty of competent surfers, but how often do you see a jaw-dropper?
fact is, 90% of the waves are surfed by 10% of the people, and 90% of the time they're just trimming and reacting... the waves just don't lend themselves to much more... most of the time.
how many times have you paddled out into junk, and been happily surprised that "there were a few good ones in there"?
most oregon surfing is paddling into drops that could barely roll, but might steepen or pitch, and you often can't be 100% sure if you're going left or right until you've committed and are looking left and right frantically. those aren't conditions that allow you to wire moves and link together turns... most shortboarders who are aggressive have to try to crank as many turns in as they can, often rising and dropping only a fraction of the wave face because the waves gonna section any second and they know it. it looks like epilepsy, hacking. most longboarders boringly trim and glide, barely any rising or dropping and occasionally make half-hearted attempts at walking... a bona-fide cheater five is really a rarity.
it's not all to be pinned on the surfers, though, hell... a lot of us have to muster incredible reserves to travel, to wait, to surf junk, to invest in wetsuits and boards... the conditions here just ain't what they are in other places. You see it reflected in lots of ways, too. If you fish from your SUP, you're a real novelty on the beach... people taking pictures of you and stuff. How many of you guys know of a good cliff to jump off of into the ocean? when was the last time you did it? It's tough to be a "water man/woman" here. It's expensive, too. You don't really find useable boards at gimme prices. You need a lot of stuff to dive, to snorkel, to kayak, to sling-spear, crab, to surf, to sea kayak. And once your garage is full of that crap, you're gonna be waiting for weather windows and gettin' stymied, watching the fish and waiting for the seasons to open, and dodging the PSP closures. icy brown water in the summer and flocks of hopeful folks clustered in laughable "sanctuary spots" in the winter, and the wind... always the wind. From surfers to dory folk, most ocean recreationalists in oregon enjoy a "you're crazy" stigma just for going out there at all.
a bright spot in the mist of reality though... i rented 'Drive Through: California' a while back, and the pro's surfed junk on the OR/CA border, and they didn't look any better than us.
don't believe me? throw on a Slater/Irons flick and tell me the last time you saw anything like that here.