A couple weeks ago I dp'd it on a forecast that had kept me up most of the night; winds looks bout perfect but swell was supposed to be 13@17

. Checked buoys on the 50 of every hour for the entire drive over and was sweating in the dark at what I saw. Watched the road crew move the barrier for the tunnel at 5:50 and showed coastal just after dawn. Arrived to just what I feared, the line-up looked like spilled Guinness and was breaking wildly wide and unpredictable. A pair of hardy souls were ahead of me and opted for the surepound. I was dismayed by what I saw and opted for a cat nap. A hour later I decided to join said hardy souls but upon my arrival they bailed...

I caught one there,

I had hardly slept all night and didn't want to wank on inside mush so paddled out to pay my dues. Shoulder hopped a few, fought that fishy feeling and finally the peak came to me. Jacked over my head and freight trained through the inside, round the corner, quick pump into surepound, cannon balled to the lot and out on the rocks. I had seen it happen but never for me...stoked

. Grabbed an OLY to celebrate and drove back to reality.
p.s. I surfed today