June's suffering report.

[Gazsurf]

You know you're tired of lying about the wha-papp give it to us straight......

[Doc]

Rad on day 3...
Not the waves so much...
Them was so so..
But rocked the 3 mil...
Knee high peelers...
Sun no wind per se...
Cold beer on shore...
Hot enough to dry the rubber...
Tween go outs...
Pretty muched bagged at12...
But then the flood...
Started banging the inside...
Timeline demanded departure...
Or would have gone out for round 3...
It not epic...
But as good as Surf in Oregon can offer...
On a 3 foot at 10 seconds day.

Doc

[dogfur]

Friday afternoon - ditched work a couple hours early. Got to the beach to find howling north wind, small swell, high overcast sky. 1 1/2 hrs. of paddling, getting blasted in the face by spray off the nose of my board. Got a couple little lefts, mostly got a good shoulder workout. Endured a beautiful sunset. Saturday a.m. - sunny with stiff offshore wind, small swell. Shared a peak with one other for about an hour, scored a few nice set waves. Wind died about 9:30, a few others showed up. One guy in a kayak took off on a wave with three sealions surfing in it. First session ended after 3 hrs., went to the surf bus for water and to let the big yellow dog run around a little. Saw lots of people looking into the river. A pod of about 4 Orcas swimming up the river. Couldn't get to my camera in time to get a shot of them. Ocean conditions improved as the tide came up, went out for 2nd session sans booties and leash. Great left working on a high tide sandbar, got tons of fun waist high waves. Finally lost my board, which was good because I was EXHAUSTED, but not good because I was EXHAUSTED. Got a bit of a leg cramp swimming in. Flopped on the beach and caught my breath. Sat up and watched as the waves just got better and better. Enjoyed watching this old dude ripping on his longboard.

old dude_01.JPG (56.7 KiB) Viewed 17245 times

Wanted to go back out, but there was no way. Spent the rest of the day soaking up the sun and the beauty of the beach, the ocean and all the goes with it. Treated to another beautiful sunset. Roasted dinner over a driftwood fire, complete with cold beer and topped off with a tasty cigar and homemade music. What a great day. Sunday a.m. - sprinkling rain, light wind, no swell. Took a long walk down the beach with the b.y.d. and a big green garbage bag. Its weird what people just leave on the beach. Followed some string to a pretty nice kite in the dunes. Hauled a bag of trash back to the surf bus and hung out trying to kill time until high tide, but gave up about noon and went into town. Got a bag of dried fruit at the farmers market, called the sweet little thing to tell her I was heading home. But when I got to the intersection, I noticed the sky was clearing, still no wind. Right turn - home. Left turn - beach. Tried to turn right, but the surf bus turned left. Good choice. Got to the beach and that left was working, no one out. 2 hours of super fun, sunny lefthanders finished off the best weekend I've had in a long time. Still livin' it in my mind. Hope it lasts till Saturday.

[Moe]

Great Post!

[Doc]

Put the board in the van with high hopes...
They were quickly dashed by reports of crappiness...
So, charged the Willamette on the Bark...
Practiced my prone to knee transitions...
And fell off alot in the process...
Lost my sunglasses in one plunge...
But feeling more comfortable knee paddling for sure...
High hopes for a summer downwind paddle on the coast this summer.

Doc

[SooLoo]

Thanks Doc, whenever I even get slightly homesick I just read the Oregon surf report and wonder what the eff I was thinking

[Doc]

You are in a much better place...

doc

[fossilgrom]

Put the board in the van with high hopes...
They were quickly dashed by reports of crappiness...
So, charged the Willamette on the Bark...
Practiced my prone to knee transitions...
And fell off alot in the process...
Lost my sunglasses in one plunge...
But feeling more comfortable knee paddling for sure...
High hopes for a summer downwind paddle on the coast this summer.

doc

Hey Doc, I'll do a downwinder with ya. Otter to Agate or Nye can be good.

[Doc]

Sounds good Foss...

Doc

[Country Honk]

Howzit, bruddah?
Peter and I went out to Hana Bay last Wednesday. It was a perfect 6 foot down the line and crowded. I went out at Sugar Shack which was 5 foot and semi-closing out. It was fun, a little better and faster than that first day we went out, but definitely not as juicy as the last. Longboard Larry and Amazing Mike paddled out. The sets were OK, but it was a long time between waves. Three days ago was the biggest swell of the year. Animal and I drove to Hana Bay, but it was 20 foot and unrideable (whitewater everywhere). We drove back to Cracks and it was 5 to 6 foot with 3 guys out. They paddled in and I talked to them. In the morning they said it was 3 foot. When I first got there it was 5 to 6 foot. J.P. drove up and we both decided to go out and we saw an 8 to 10 foot set break across the bay, nobody was out and we started paddling out when we saw an easily 10 foot wave break across the channel. While waiting for a set of at least 6 waves to stop, I started getting sucked out to the point on the right in a river riptide. I paddled back to the beach realizing that it was peaking or still getting bigger. J.P. paddled out, caught 2 waves and came in, as it was too freaky and hard to line up with nobody out. About an hour later it got really crowded and cleaned up a bit. Jerry Mopehead went out so I took pictures of him and Max and a lot of other hotties. One guy got washed up on the rocks below me. He was lucky. At least the rip didn't drag him out to sea. Cords were useless. They snapped like peanut brittle. I heard the second ditch at Ammunition Dump was good on Sunday. Also that the left near the sewage treatment plant, which rarely breaks, was good. Well that's enough news for now. Gotta get back in the water.

ALOHA!

P.S. Don't come over here.

[SooLoo]

Best song ever Honk! Heading back to Oahu Tuesday out in front of the good south that is on the way. Should be a couple/few days of solid surf. Aloha

[Doc]

Yesterday ditch...
Drove to Brohampton...
Piles of kooks in the water...
Sun was out...
Waves were small...
Surfed for an hour or two...
Drank some beers in the sun...
Now wondering if there'll be surf...
For Father's Day...
Hope so.

Doc

[Doc]

Hard to believe no one surfed on Dad's day...
Because there were alot of MF'ers out where i was...
Way better than I expected surfwise...
Almost stayed home, glad I didn't...
In the water about 10:30 at low tide...
Rights & lefts off 3rd creek...
Some steep waist to chest high peaks coming through...
Had an awesome last second takeoff...
That I submarined the nose on...
But was able to dig it out...
Must have got overconfident tho...
Because I pitchpoled the next drop...
Got one right where I did a Larry Layback...
But couldn't quite recover it...
I was so disappointed I went in...
Luckily there was beer.

Doc

[Spent]

OK Doc, I'll bite. I surfed Dad's day. Checked the surf at 6am and it looked like arse. Not surprising given the bouy readings. However, by 7am, we found a pretty special sand bar and had three hours or so of lovely rights. Long waist to shoulder high walls with the odd hollow section. Then it disspapeared. Home by 1pm, to be showered with gifts and praise... that lasted a few hours and then I had to wash the dishes, mow the lawn, discipline the child, and so on...

Dad's day evening wasn't too shabby either, after everyone vacated, until I was chased out of the water by several aggro seals around 930pm. So I drank a beer, naked on the empty beach and called it an evening.

[dogfur]

Dad's day session turned out better than it looked once I got out there. The Sweet Little Thing came along, as well as my niece. Just the three of us on it. Wasn't the greatest conditions, but they got some rides in the soup, got worked tying to get outside, but they had fun. Dad got a few set waves that held up for some tip time. Wasn't particularly sunny, but light north wind and actually relatively warm on the beach. Youngest daughter and he boyfriend showed up with gift - Ice cold double red Beliver Ale. MMMM... guess I did something right raising that one. Post surf went into town for local seafood dinner.
Monday afternoon took of work a little early and shot over to the local break. 15 knot north wind and no place to hide.
Drove north to the protected spot and found shiney smooth waist-chest high walls. Got lots of fun rides with friends until the draining tide kind of killed it about sunset. Endorphins still holding me up so far today...