by qball » Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:12 pm
I never learned to measure waves, Hawaiian or otherwise, so I describe the surf's size in broad generalities. Knee-high is a good all-around measure.
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming -- 'WOW, what a ride!!!'"