by qball » Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:29 pm
Caught the tail-end of a swell in St. Augustine (swell being 2-foot and blown to hell). First surf in months. I sucked @ss, but damn it was nice to get in the water without first fighting my fat into a wetsuit. Had a dolphin surf 10 feet from my board. Nice.
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming -- 'WOW, what a ride!!!'"