best fall EVER!!

[smithgrind]

Just trying to stay positive so I don't drown in my own froth. breathe...

Frothing is what surfing is all about, and I try to have a daily froth.

[Bubalus]

After a couple hours of bigger but very doable surf yesterday evening the ocean threw a switch. Huge closeout walls stacked to the horizon. Felt like a huge set but it never stopped. Everyone got washing in and it was over. Never seen the ocean change moods that fast. I'm not surprised to hear the coast guard was busy today.

[Spent]

swell well well...