by coalbank » Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:03 am
ok, i know this board is a bit slow these days, and I've never been a huge contributor, but i felt the need to share my stoke from yesterday. I have family, etc, now, so if I surf more than 10 times this year it will be unusual, but anyway, back to the stoke: got the family in the car by 9ish, fueled up a Grand Central in P-town, arrived Hug Point at 11. Made camp. I looked a bit there, but given my lack of surfing calluses and general ignorance about that stretch of coast, ditched fam and scurried up to SS. Zero wind, air temp 55 ish, water not as cold as I expected, not a cloud to be seen. Charged into the whitewater, almost gave up with noodle arms, saw heads nearby, charged again with renewed courage, arrived at green water. Caught my breath, looked about. Lovely. Chest to head to slightly overhead rolling through at a decent clip. Rested, observed, gave thanks. Paddled in to a nice little wave, up, down the face, trimmed and then was reminded why I love to surf - a stretch of walled green water in front of me, and the quiet of a nice ride. Pulled the best cutback I could manage, kept going. caught a few more like that. Wussed out on a head+ wave that I want back. Scurried back to Hug for tidepooling and creek engineering. Good stuff.
that's the view from my mother in-law's kitchen...