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Fall 2014

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Fall 2014

Postby intrepid » Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:41 pm

Fall surf is here! Have you checked in on your favorite spots lately?

It's good.

Right.

Now.
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby Doc » Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:21 pm

Soon as I post up on the N coast it jumps from 3' to 14'

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Re: Fall 2014

Postby Spent » Sat Oct 11, 2014 9:52 am

Had a great run of surf last week. Warm water. New spots, old spots. Surfed a locale (further south than my usual go-tos) that I've wanted to hit for years and found a perfect A-frame. Just three of us on it. Rights and lefts just as good as each other. Super easy take offs into long lined up face-high walls and close-out barrels on the shallow inside sandbar. No booties. Went bananas for a couple of hours and then the tide shut it down. But it was one of those 'pinch me' sessions that keeps me on the hunt. Pretty much surfed my chunky 5'8" in all of it with various different fin set ups.

Four days of wave after wave. For once, felt like I got my fill... stuck in the Val since then...
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby Doc » Tue Oct 14, 2014 7:28 pm

Found waves.
None of which I would classify as satisfying.
Too bumpy, too mushy, too drunk.
Doesn't help that I can't feel my left hand again.
Sucks.

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Re: Fall 2014

Postby McDing » Wed Oct 15, 2014 2:54 am

Very clean, glassy and blue last week south of LC. Beach break and a sometimes left point. 4 ft. to head high sets for two days in a row. A fair day at Roads End Fri . Faster, hollower and two fat guys got caught in the rip, but made it safely to shore. It all turned to crap by that afternoon. Saw the jet ski crew heading south as I returned to PC.
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby intrepid » Thu Oct 16, 2014 9:07 pm

Friday was an amazing day! Super fun, clean lefts that just went and went... Great vibe in the water with everyone getting amped for the swell to arrive on Saturday.

Saturday morning the swell was rising, with conditions that weren't as organized as Friday. With a window for surf that was closing, I didn't have much time to wait for a ride out through the shore break. A thought began to work into my brain as I stood around watching waves roll in. I wanted to see if I could make it out before heading for home.

It took about 35 minutes of paddling before I made it out. ...or so I thought. The shore break was pounding 30 yards inside of me, so I figured I was out far enough, until about 8 minutes later. The cleanup set rolled through and broke about 20 yards out from me. I jumped off the board and dove under the first wave. I got tossed around pretty good and had to climb the leash to surface. With the longer period swell I had a long few seconds to get my bearings and a couple breaths before the next wave rolled through. I got tossed around a bit again this time wrapping the leash pretty tightly around my legs. While under for the next wave I was able to get untangled. I surfaced to find that my board hadn't faired the tumble very well.

I undid the leash, swam to shore, picked up the surfboard pieces, and headed home. No waves, but a good workout.

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Re: Fall 2014

Postby Spent » Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:35 pm

Did your GoPro catch the Hot Action?
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby Doc » Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:41 pm

At least your board bag didn't get ripped in half.

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Re: Fall 2014

Postby smithgrind » Thu Oct 30, 2014 4:03 pm

Doc wrote:At least your board bag didn't get ripped in half.

doc

You're one of those "good news" Docs. Mahalo!
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby Spent » Sun Nov 02, 2014 9:56 am

Good size but fun yesterday. No GoPros but a board was broken. Didn't see any of you, except for you two.
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby McDing » Sun Nov 02, 2014 2:34 pm

Been Crap down here lately. And NO you didn't see me out there. Yeah those Epoxy/comp slam boards are really strong. Don't feel bad though; saw lots of 'em snap in two worthless pieces over the years.
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby intrepid » Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:03 pm

Surf today was great! Head high, glassy, and beautiful shoulders. Only friendly faces in the water and the sun was out.

I also got a pic from the day a couple weeks back when I got caught inside on the clean-up set.

Outside! Hahaha
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby Bubalus » Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:04 am

Whoa that looks pretty rough. Is the one that broke your board?

Fall has been pretty stellar so far but yesterday took the cake. There was a section straight out of a Rick Griffin cartoon...portal to another dimension.
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Re: Fall 2014

Postby wanty » Wed Nov 12, 2014 3:51 pm

Intrepid living up to his name.
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