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Nov Surf Report

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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby X-squid » Tue Nov 21, 2017 4:03 pm

I see potential over the long weekend. Not sure where I'll end up tho.
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby pra_ggresion » Sun Nov 26, 2017 11:25 am

BOX wrote:Made it out to Agate on Saturday early afternoon. Had meant to go in the morning, but life happened and I ended up having to put it off a bit. Might have missed some better waves, but it was good to get out nonetheless. My daughter came with me and brought her body board, so it was nice to spend some time with her.

Performance-wise, I've had better days. I got some good rides in, but felt like I spent a lot of time just trying to catch waves. It could have been just me, but my daughter said she had trouble catching them as well. Mind you, I'm just a beginner around here, but it seemed to me that there just wasn't enough "oomph". My typical M.O. is to catch waves as they crash behind me in the white water and use them to propel me towards shore as I practice my pop-ups, balance, and if I'm lucky, turns. On some days the waves push my board so hard I feel like I'm hanging on for dear life when I take off. However, on Saturday it felt like the opposite for the most part. Even when I would get good forward momentum by the time I was standing on my board I was at a standstill. I tried putting some more weight on my forward foot, and that helped some, but not enough to keep me going. As I said, could be the waves, could be my skill level, but I'm guessing it was probably a combination of both.

Due to the lack of big waves/propulsion, I didn't get too many chances to work on my drop-in. I can recall at least two attempts, one ending in me standing on my board going nowhere after the wave passed under me, and the other sending me face-first into a spin cycle. Got a nice nasal rinse from that one :)

But, on the positive side, I did catch a few and got some good rides in (relative to my experience level), so not all was lost. Plus I got to spend a few hours hanging out with my daughter, so you know, can't complain about that. There are no bad days in the water :D


The "oomph" comes from period. For one, cause physics, the longer the period, the faster a waveform propagates through a medium. Two, consider 2 swells with the same height but the second swell has a longer period. That means the second swell has greater distance between crests and consequently more mass. So a longer period swell is the difference between getting pushed by a car and a train. In general, the longer the period, the better the swell. It's possible that too long a period will cause a spot to "max-out", resulting in close-outs or reform conditions. Longer periods are more rare, they often activate spots that wouldn't otherwise work, usually increases the need for technique because of the increased velocity and mass pushing you, but often leads to that sweet spot of requiring less effort for getting into waves. Period is the most important factor for determining the upper limit of quality that a swell can achieve IMO.
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:58 am

Hope you dudes and dudets scored over the holiday..... was well inland south and slightly east in the desert. Made the best out of it logging some miles on the trails. Sun and warm temps weren't to shabby, but kept having Baja flashbacks with no ocean for miles.

Popped the PC cam for kicks on Sat I think it was. Watched 2 heads trading right hand barrels and snaps south of a stagnant pack off the lot. Hopefully it was FW and SG. Impressive to watch.

Just scored a freshie current seasons Psyco Tech suit 30% off from Moment. Time to end the Nov drought I've been in last few weeks. :twisted:
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby pra_ggresion » Mon Nov 27, 2017 3:29 pm

Did not score waves this Thanksgiving. Which breaks a pretty long streak for me. Ended up on the East coast, for turkey day. Better half has a super rich relative with a second home on Martha's Vineyard where I got to meet the rest of the fam and explain my employment situation multiple times. Turns out they have some pretty decent setups. Wish I was more dedicated and I could've kept my turkey streak going. Speaking of turkey streaks, got food poisoning from one of the creme' fraise and caviar spreads atop bollini's which made for a stupendous plane ride back home. The only silver lining was imagining the missus highly opinionated precious princess cousin painting another shitter at a 2000' lower altitude. Kinda makes her feel a bit more like family in a way and honestly, that food was so opulently delicious that you could've told me ahead of time what was gonna go down and I still would've ate it.

To the point, surf did happen finally for me today back home. Took the missus 6'8" funboard out and got some short period overhead waves. If directly in front of the peak then it was a bomb drop but quickly dissipated to a mushy waist high shoulder. Knee handled it and that was the whole point of the session today, thereby breaking a three week no surf streak. Also pleased to announce the other streaks are no more as well.
Last edited by pra_ggresion on Mon Nov 27, 2017 3:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby X-squid » Mon Nov 27, 2017 3:30 pm

I thought about surfing Saturday but life/wife/kids happened. Got a great hike in as well though and my kids only whined for the last 1/2 mile.
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby erzats » Mon Nov 27, 2017 3:32 pm

It's coming. Early mornnigs will be rewarded this week.
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:29 pm

pra_ggresion wrote:Turns out they have some pretty decent setups.


Grew up surfing New England. Set ups there are somewhat superior to ours for the majority of the coastline. Consistent swells the prob. Boated over to MV once and surfed a pretty heavy beachie on a cane swell. Sounds like Thanksgiving day delivered the goods back there at least in the Ocean State where my fam is at.

Looking XXL out there mateys. Wont be free until Sat anyways. Hoping it drops. Not saying there weren't waves, but Nov was bust for me. 2 seshies on the calendar :(
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby Spent » Mon Nov 27, 2017 9:12 pm

same. maybe three or four sessions in Nov all mediocre. huge let down after october. my schedule never lined up with the windows. how easy i lose interest in surfing...
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby smithgrind » Mon Nov 27, 2017 9:53 pm

I'm grom stoked after last weekend. Losing sleep over a proper step up between 6' and 6'6" that I've been
missing in my life but didn't realize until my froth OD from the last surf. Like all things, this will pass..
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Nov 28, 2017 3:34 pm

Noice... IME what many of the popular shapers call daily drivers with round tails work better vs. proper steps in this neck of the woods. In the Lost.. world say a Driver. Someone local could prob cook something up.
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:46 pm

November surf report same ole OR BS. To big or to small. To blown out or to localized. Or to fugin busy. Good riddance Nov 2017.
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby Tex » Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:53 pm

I had ambitions for November...they got flushed down the shitter. Next month is going to kick @ss, I just know it!!!
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby BOX » Fri Dec 01, 2017 1:43 pm

pra_ggresion wrote:
The "oomph" comes from period. For one, cause physics, the longer the period, the faster a waveform propagates through a medium. Two, consider 2 swells with the same height but the second swell has a longer period. That means the second swell has greater distance between crests and consequently more mass. So a longer period swell is the difference between getting pushed by a car and a train. In general, the longer the period, the better the swell. It's possible that too long a period will cause a spot to "max-out", resulting in close-outs or reform conditions. Longer periods are more rare, they often activate spots that wouldn't otherwise work, usually increases the need for technique because of the increased velocity and mass pushing you, but often leads to that sweet spot of requiring less effort for getting into waves. Period is the most important factor for determining the upper limit of quality that a swell can achieve IMO.


Thanks, pra! If I remember correctly the swell period was 8 seconds that day. I've heard anything less than 10 is sub-par, but the weather was agreeable and I had the day off so I thought I would give it a shot. I feel like I've had ok days with 8 second periods, though, which is why I'm really trying to read conditions better. I swear I've read the exact same predictions on two different days before and had vastly different experiences. So why was one day good and the other bad? Don't know, that's what I'm hoping to find out. Thanks for your help - much appreciated! :D
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby pra_ggresion » Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:50 pm

I could talk incessantly all day every day about nothing else, so no prob. Can't really tell why things were different on two days with all things being equal. One can never visit the same river twice and one will never encounter the same wave twice either. Could have been any combination of swell direction, height, tide, wind, current, lay lines due to Mercury in retrograde, etc. The idea is to begin a mental database and start checking spots to see what their doing even if they aren't surfable. Even if it means pissing off your friends and loved ones to the point that you have to ditch them altogether. Cause if you think about it, how great can they actually be if they don't mesh with surfing? One strategy is have your family picnics at that the one place you want to figure out so you can watch what it does through an entire tidal cycle. Every one gets to have a sandwich with an awesome view and no divorce! Win win.
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Re: Nov Surf Report

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Dec 01, 2017 9:16 pm

pra_ggresion wrote:Even if it means pissing off your friends and loved ones to the point that you have to ditch them altogether. Cause if you think about it, how great can they actually be if they don't mesh with surfing? One strategy is have your family picnics at that the one place you want to figure out so you can watch what it does through an entire tidal cycle. Every one gets to have a sandwich with an awesome view and no divorce! Win win.


Yep Hahaha :D :) :lol:
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