December to Remember Surf Report

[BOX]

I went to Agate late morning Saturday and had a pretty good day. Apparently there was a Coast Guard surf rescue right before I got there, but I missed all of that action. Not many people were in the water when I got there, about an hour after high tide. Waves seemed really flat once I got out and figured that's why no one was in the water. Don't know if the waves picked up or if I just moved around to the right spot but after awhile I found a consistent pattern of catchable waves and after that things markedly improved.

Don't know about the advanced level, but for me I had a great time out. There was little or no wind, so that was no problem, and the sun came out for a bit so it actually felt pretty nice out. I was catching waves consistently, so that was a nice confidence boost from the last few rough times out. At this point any time I'm up on my board, balanced, and in control I count that as a win. And I had a lot of wins that day, so that was pretty cool.

[erzats]

I did some surf board riding a couple weeks ago. Ledgy point reef thing hidden under a bluff few know of or bother to check given that Jordan promises point break perfection just down the road. Glassy waves. High tide. Lots of cool new to me jellies. Bald eagles, sun glinting over the Olympic Mountains blah blah blah. Then the high tide flotsam drifted in. I got tired of pushing logs out of the way and called it a day.

[Tex]

sounds like a little slice of heaven.

[Spent]

Got to the coast Friday afternoon and it looked good but the longer I looked and chatted with the boys the less appealing it looked. And then it went to total garbage. Rippy, sectiony, inconsistent. I finally got back in the car and drove away. On the way out, saw a couple of friends drive in and I turned around to say hello. They said, 'don't be a dick paddle out with us.' I thought, at least I'll get some paddle exercise but I really wasn't seeing what they were seeing. Hopped in the rip and found myself in position for an outside right, turned and sketched the drop, just about made it through the first section and then cruised through to the shoulder in disbelief to see my friend on the shoulder, 'told you it was good.' Got a few of those and that was all I needed. Winter ale, fish and chips and hot tub times, rounded it all off nicely.

Next morn some real gems were being lit up by the east winds. Wrong board choice, low wave count and mostly watched other people get some good ones... but was a great and long session. Hopefully squeeze a couple more sessions in before the end of 2017 but the lesson is: More foam and a heavier board in cold, blustery conditions, even if it looks mellow and easy.

[Tex]

Now that is a very cool story...sometimes it's the homies that can see what we cannot. So many times my boys were dead set on a session, they could see the lines, I followed, I scored. I wouldnt have paddled out if I was by myself.

Merry Christmas guys! Thanks for a strong OSP finish in the forum, you all made the year a lot more interesting.

Tex

[pra_ggresion]

Merry Christmas all. Got some waves yesterday before I had to go to my sisters place in the valley. I was late but it wasn't my fault cause the swell took it's sweet @ss time filling in. 5:11AM-10:11AM; 3'@9sec. Finally went direct to the buoy data, 17 second interval measured, right on. Don't have to be there until 4 which means 3 hour sesh if I can manage a 11:00 paddle out. Flat at the spot I wanted to surf. Drove back and forth freaking out (with sound effects) every time I saw a flag that looked like it might be waving any direction other than offshore. I mean, it's suppose to be offshore all day goddammit, amiright? Nothing any better than the first spot, so I decide to suit up and hope something shows up. On my way out, performed a shift change with a guy on his way in. He said it was "focking cold, but seeing some bump finally showing up." Caught a couple lil racey waist highers until every wave resulted in self congratulatory claims and a longer paddle out each time. Clear sign of things picking up. By the time I could no longer feel my feet it was definitely head high and juicier. Lack of foot sensation indicated approximately 2PM; deadline. Too bad fam, lotta skunkings lately and I need/want this. Rationalized staying out cause everyone else in the fam is self-absorbed and "what the hell has anyone done for me recently?" I could see the spot I was originally hoping for was now working but it was a 20 minute paddle away. I re-rationalized a compromise that if I could get a decent wave or five in the next bit then I'll get out and minimize the amount of time everyone wouldn't wait for me anyways. Sure enough, got that, see a peak coming straight to that adjacent paddle in so I can fade on the take off and figure out a sick shreddable line; yeah no, flopporoni. K, next time. Now humbled, an even better backside wall came at me. Took off and got 1.25 second no exit tube. It was worthy though cause, I dodged the lip and threaded a high line. Compromise was fulfilled, now to do my part. Long story short; made it in time for the kids to open a traditional one christmas eve present and super delicious food. They were stoked on these #2 pencils with a dookie for an eraser that I got them. Peace on earth.

Post Script: Wife read this and said heatedly that I forgot to mention the fact that while I was out "rationalizing" she made food and wrapped all the presents. Funny thing perspective.

[Major Lazer]

Went to church on Xmas eve..... started checking spots just as it was light enough. Tide to low for the point sand bank I surfed myself silly until dark the previous day. Moved on to town. Back and forth, nothing looked appealing other than offshores. Cold, real cold, colder than the previous few days and grey. Gun barrel grey and cold, real cold.

Sat at spot X and contemplated. Is that right doable or just drive home? Then a local fellow pulled up suited and booted. I guess he saw something. Ran out and hit the water as it was just starting to spit rain. Cold so cold and made the mistake of wearing my old suit, it was dry. But it was cold real cold and grey, gun barrel grey and quite a contrast from the previous sun drenched surf vibed day.

Sat off the channel waiting..... made my 1st wave but it was less than glamorous surfing and felt like I was holding on in the foam ball stink bugging it before muscling my way to a face for a few pumps and over the top before it closed out. Other guy was down the way throwing his CI around on the occasional workable left. After a long lull a set hit the sand bank and the right I was eyeing wedged up. Couldn't get in or down the face quick enough and got tossed and violently shaken underwater despite it was only a 5' face. Poped back out only to catch a fast moving left that bucked me off the face. Long lull spent contemplating the validity of the session, the cold, the grey, my decision to hold out one more night, and what my family was doing on Xmas eve morning with out me. A hint of depression sank in. Got busy again and paddled around to warm up and find nothing. Guy down the beach had called it. Paddled down to where he was, but nothing. Finally bellied on in and ran to my rig freezing my @ss off. I was so cold I felt sick.

Drive home was an absolute shite show. White knuckled it over sheet after sheet of ice. Up and over each pass at 30 mph. Passing spun out motorists and a wreck or two. Finally I was on the downward slog into the valley, the valley of sickness, freeway bound when things seemed to just get worse. Snow ice and more than I saw up in the coast range. And traffic out the wazoo on a weekday pseudo holiday. Fook Sylvan was a sketchy crawl. Would I make it home for Xmas eve or be stuck in the typical snowpocalypse having to abandon my rig and try to make it home on foot. 405 fuccked... detour through the Pearl, over the Broadway, and up the MLK until I made it home just in tome for lunch plans wife had with friends.

Later in the day someone mentioned church and I replied by saying I had gone 1st thing this AM, which at the time felt like it was days ago. They looked a bit surprised (I dont go to church) and asked if it was worth it. I paused and thought about it for a few without ever giving any details of my AM foray and simply replied "yes it was worth it".

[pra_ggresion]

Haha, right on. And daang it's cold! Love how if you're persistent, even if you get skunked, at least you pushed your self into a shocking environment and it still ends up satisfying.

[Tex]

We must be in the same hood Major....you described my drive home sans ice to a T....I am also in NE....25th & Mason.
Great story, by the way!

[smithgrind]

Drive home was an absolute shite show. White knuckled it over sheet after sheet of ice. Up and over each pass at 30 mph. Passing spun out motorists and a wreck or two. Finally I was on the downward slog into the valley, the valley of sickness, freeway bound when things seemed to just get worse. Snow ice and more than I saw up in the coast range. And traffic out the wazoo on a weekday pseudo holiday. Fook Sylvan was a sketchy crawl. Would I make it home for Xmas eve or be stuck in the typical snowpocalypse having to abandon my rig and try to make it home on foot. 405 fuccked... detour through the Pearl, over the Broadway, and up the MLK until I made it home just in tome for lunch plans wife had with friends.

So happy FW and I bailed back to the valley on Saturday evening instead of staying on the coast for Christmas Eve day waves. I did the drive back from the coast during last year's snowpocalypse on Dec. 14th when the city came to a standstill. An epic drive that I wouldn't wish to repeat but the waves were worth it.

[Major Lazer]

Yeah was so surfed out.... surfed for prob 5 or 6 hours Sat. Just wanted to drink a few beers and chill out. And was greedy for more waves. Was probably good once the tide turned and new swell started filling. Wanted to go yest but wife said no

[X-squid]

Damn I missed all he fun. Had too many family commitments the last few days and couldn't sneak out for a surf. Being a responsible adult really screws with my life sometimes. Gonna hit the Cove tomorrow though; looks like it may line up nicely.

And yeah 'eff all the snow/ice driving. White knuckled more trips over the range last year than I care to count. 2-wheel drive pick-up just adds to the misery.

[X-squid]

Got some nice rides at the sandbars just north of the Cove this morning (Cove wasn't working - flooded out and junky.) Rode my hybrid fish with the twin keels on - turned out to be perfect for the conditions (okay maybe a log would have been better but... no).

Got a bunch of really nice long sweeping rights in between the closeouts. Paddle is brutal over there though. Too much hassle to go back and take the rip out... got most of the Xmas grub worked off today I think.

[pra_ggresion]

Amping for this New Years swell. Looks like it's going to be a stellar first week to kick it off. Last session was pretty good considering it was suppose to be blown out. Got a couple really good waves with solid lips and then got stuck inside. Then got cleaned up just as I was about to make it back out which resulted in about 45 minutes of paddling total. Next wave was a pretty sick angry right but obviously wasn't going to make it back outside afterwards so went in. Windy and blown out by that time but still felt like I needed more. Went for a paddle to the way outside to try and get some chunky drops. Two Coast Guard cutters decided to join me in the line up except they wanted to ride the waves in the opposite direction. Wasn't about to back off cause technically I was deeper but in the end I decided to get out of the way so they could do their training thing without a kook in the way. Those boats are so badass

[Tex]

I would have made them move....just kidding, good choice Pra!