by pra_ggresion » Tue Dec 05, 2017 7:30 pm
Got a surf in this evening. Perfect DOH backlit waves. Did NOT improve my performance and kooked it so many times. For instance, dropped in super early, already to the bottom turn and I slip out. WTF!!! Constantly out of rhythm with the sets and couldn't dial in a lineup for the life of me. Got caught inside like twenty times. Even on my way in, I had to paddle the whole way back after my last wave, except for the one white wash to come through which of course flipped me over. Anyways, I think the issue was that I was projecting my personal issues into the ocean but then I re-centered by the time I got home. Got the inevitable mellow buzz from the endorphines going, and things seem alright again. On a positive note, I did get several good drops and one really good, long, frontside wave that I stayed in the pocket the whole time.
Potato salad or die!