oregonsurf.com

It was an O-FER November for me although I did have a three day sojourn on the books in the Strait. Oldest son threw a wrench in the plan when he damn near got expelled. Hoping for ground swell, high pressure and east winds to get me a nice little session or two this month.

Yeah except for one great Cove sesh early in the month, pretty weak for me, too. My company shuts down for a week + around X-mas and no family in town so I'll be out and about. Doing a week in San Diego right after New Years too.

Next week looks promising. Milk it while its offshore.

Yup- looks like Friday could be really good. I'm on it...

Thursday looked ok as well....but I have an all day board meeting. EFF ME

Felt like I needed to knock off the rust from November, so went to a spot I'd for sure get tossed around. I did make 5 waves but didn't surf that well which was kinda disappointing. Wasn't reading the conditions very well and backed out of a bunch I should have gone for. Started coughing on the way home and it made me feel a little better that part of the reason for the poor performance was that I might be coming down with something. Hopefully tomorrow I won't have to make excuses.

Good on ya for getting out and at least putting the board under your feet a few times. Hope you get to slay some tomorrow!
Always appreciate the reports!

Been down here in Sayulita for a week of sun, suds and pills. Finally got my @ss off
the sand yesterday and paddled out into the zoo line up in just my boardies. No foam, no glass
, no flippers. Just an empty can of Pacifico for a handplane. Got my fair share and scored a
few set waves by slipping in between the novices cutting off the rippers and claiming the
open shoulders. Once I freed myself from all of my surfing hang ups like renting a board
Or bringing one down here with me, figuring where I should surf and when would
conditions be best...all the bullshite that flies around in my head because of my obsession with surfing
, I had a real sense of happiness just doing it with the vessel I was born in to.

Just an empty can of Pacifico for a handplane.

YES!!!! LOVE IT!

You drank the Pacifico and then took it out right?

Got a surf in this evening. Perfect DOH backlit waves. Did NOT improve my performance and kooked it so many times. For instance, dropped in super early, already to the bottom turn and I slip out. WTF!!! Constantly out of rhythm with the sets and couldn't dial in a lineup for the life of me. Got caught inside like twenty times. Even on my way in, I had to paddle the whole way back after my last wave, except for the one white wash to come through which of course flipped me over. Anyways, I think the issue was that I was projecting my personal issues into the ocean but then I re-centered by the time I got home. Got the inevitable mellow buzz from the endorphines going, and things seem alright again. On a positive note, I did get several good drops and one really good, long, frontside wave that I stayed in the pocket the whole time.

My worst sessions have been just before coming down with a flu or some shite...

You need a bit of namaste bro.

pra_ggresion wrote:...Anyways, I think the issue was that I was projecting my personal issues into the ocean but then I re-centered by the time I got home...

Whoa.

Slim.....shite, been too long, great to see you on the old OSP!

Hit SS this morning - wasn't as great as the forecasts made it sound but still fun. Couple of head-high bombs mixed in with a lot of closeouts.