Surfing for Sartre

[Foul Pete]

Now cue Foul to come and school us all...

The best way to ruin surfing is to read about it, write about it, talk about it, think about it.

[Tex]

Foul Pete, nice to see you back bro!

Anyway, has anyone read West of Jesus, I got about half way through and put it down....

[Howly Wolf]

The best way to ruin surfing is to read about it, write about it, talk about it, think about it.

That's rich coming from someone who has, at minimum, four OSP accounts.

[Foul Pete]

The best way to ruin surfing is to read about it, write about it, talk about it, think about it.

That's rich coming from someone who has, at minimum, four OSP accounts.

Way more than that but none of them that know anything about surfing.

[Major Lazer]

It has its time and place. Dig reading about surfing when I am surfing, like on surf trips. Now its a bit of pods on the way to surf. Tried to read that Kook book in Nica and didn't really get to far. I liked Caught Inside as similar story about being new to surfing better. Shoulda brought Salt Water Buddha. Need to read that one. Surf books I liked:

Caught Inside - Daniel Duane (takes place in an old stomping ground)
In Search of Captain Zero - Allan Wisebecker (wrote about many of the spots and peps I surfed and meet and still travel to in Centro)
Dogs of Winter and TJ Straights - Ken Nunn (cold water gnar up north and tales south of the boarder)
Barbarian Days - William Finnegan (surfed OBSF for 8 seasons)
Dig Parameters musings and print articles as well as Bursick.

Just starting The Darkest White about Craig Kelly the snowboard legend and PNW surfer who eventually died in avy. Believe he had a house in Manzo at one point.