My dad was a philosophy major at UW back in the day. He sent me Surfing with Sartre by Aaron James author of the best selling a-holes: A Theory.
Anyway, turns out James is also a surfer. I am about 30 pages in....he is trying his damnedest to tie surfing to a coherent philosophical paradigm. The subtitle is: An Aquatic Inquiry into a life of Meaning.
Anyone else read it already?